gyrate

less wear of trackpin holes and more realistic suspension travel (track doesn't precompress/prevent compression of roadwheels). and less strain on the bearings but that's a bit irrelevant being how much use the toys get. i've noticed track jumps are far less violent with less tension - easier to track back on.

the main issue is the track gets pushed back creating slack before the intake sprocket teeth and as you turn the ground bites it and pulls it left or right (depending on turn dir). then in that kinked position as the slacked up links make contact with the sprocket they are off center and jump the teeth. what's causing the excess track slop is that the first roadwheel (after the idler) compresses as the track pulls and thus creates slack that is not accounted for by the static tensioner. i have tried all sorts of solutions... i even ran double torsion bars on the first wheels to give them more tension.. same difference. the metal suspension parts are actually angled more aggressively for the 2 front wheels to create extra tension, but again, insufficient solution.

weight is not enough to overcome the massive traction the tracks have with the ground. as for a dynamic self adjusting tensioner, doubt that will work as all it will do is pull the track and compress the suspension causing weirdness.

we need reduced traction tracks for this thing.... i dont want to spend more money but i wonder if the impact ones with ice grousers all the way around, after you file the ridges on each pad will do the job. aka a4 style which has the subdued metal pads.