RCU Forums - View Single Post - HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part IV
Old 06-22-2013, 09:13 PM
  #21  
mnemennth
Senior Member
 
mnemennth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Victoria TX
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part IV


ORIGINAL: ingleburn


ORIGINAL: mnemennth

Awww...

Daggannit, Jonesy... I wish you'd made the jump when you were talking about it; now all my big lumpy posts are lost at the end of the last thread.

*Pouts*

Also... I made it through your portal to the new thread okay, but why do my nipples hurt all of a sudden?


mnem
Probably should have GLaDOS look at that...
We havent forgotten your posts.
In fact I was just thinking there was a gyro missing on your list. www.r-hobbies.com/index.php
Had it on one of my 450's but could never get it to work properly. It was the idiot on the end of it rather than the controller but I still went back to what I know, the ZYX.
Think thats the first time in this hobby that I let anything beat me.


*Shamelessly uses this as an excuse to drag his last monster post through the portal*




ORIGINAL: mnemennth

State of the Art right now in FBL Controls

Hey guys; as you know, I've been researching FBL a lot lately, much of it at the urging of you guys. I've got a flying club buddy, Mason, who has some pretty 3D good piloting chops and has been messing about in helis; this guy has been flying a HK-250 with tail gyro unconfigured (and not plugged into the RX!) and now an HK-450V2 with Tarot DFC head and Detrum GY-48V tail gyro (Thankfully, configured and plugged into the RX at my urging). He really is a heck of a pilot, which is probably why he can fly these things "Full Manual Mode".

Here's some video of him hovering it last night:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tmv-h0epfDU

So I promised him I'd consolidate what I've learned and send him an eMail with that and some links. I was hoping I could get you guys to look it over and tell me if I've gotten anything blatantly wrong, or missed something or some gear that's important.


Mason -

I've been researching FBL for a while now; my choice, based on price and the forums, would be either the Bigaole BGL007-007 or the Robird G31 if I can afford it, matched with 4 of Turnigy's TGY-396V or TGY-306G servos and a decent 5-10A SBEC to power it all.




The big names in FBL right now are Mikado, BeastX, Skookum, HeliCommand and of course Align.


http://www.readyheli.com/MIK4357-Mini-V-Bar-V-52-Flybarless-Stabilization-System-p-37053.html


http://www.helidirect.com/microbeast...sb-p-22947.hdx


http://www.helidirect.com/skookum-ro...er-p-26481.hdx


http://www.helidirect.com/bavariandemon-3sx-p-30875.hdx


http://www.helidirect.com/align-3gx-...01-p-23880.hdx


Performance-wise, the Mikado V-Bar and HeliCommand Bavarian Demon are considered the high-end, and prices to match.


The Align 3GX is considered to be stable and adjustable, but a pain in the tuchus to set up right, and the products from Mikado, HeliCommand and arguably even BeastX have surpassed the Align technology. The last year has been one of rocket-paced development in FBL; there's no room for "Old trued and true" when there's a new, better model every month. And I mean that - there really IS a new, BETTER model every few weeks; development is moving that fast.

The popular "affordable" FBL units are Tarot's ZYX-S 3GX competitor and the Robird G31 in the $100 range, and the Mikado Mini-V-Bar and the BeastX at around $200; all will use Spektrum satellite receivers as a direct plug-in, so no messing about with oodles of servo patch cables and a regular RX.

The BeastX is considered to be the best "First" FBL, with simple, easy to configure programming right from the panel, no PC required, plus being able to fine-tune for more performance as your needs grow. The V-Bar is not as easy to program, but has a lot more performance-oriented "fine-tuning" variables available. The Robird is considered to have the best GUI for programming on the PC; HobbyKing AND Tarot both sell it, so it's pretty popular.

http://www.robirdusa.com/G31-Gyro

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ss_System.html

http://tarot-rc-heli.com/Robird-G31-with-Govenor

As you might guess, the V-Bar and BeastX are VERY popular and have spawned a number of clones; HK sells pretty much all of the sub-$100 FBL units and clones, even Tarot's ZYX-S Align 3GX clone:


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...m_Adapter.html

Mini V-Bar clone:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ol_System.html



BeastX clone: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ol_System.html

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...licopters.html

http://www.r-hobbies.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=802#.UcK2l5yjiuM <~~~~~HobbyMate HB800 is right there


All the above BeastX clones are rebranded Bigaole BGL007-007 units. Popular consensus is that these are a VERY good clone of the BeastX, but are susceptible to issues with power, so recommended to use a separate SWITCHING BEC of 5-10A capacity, especially if using digital servos. Truth is, that is actually a good recommendation for ANY FBL system, even the big name brands; most ESCs just don't provide enough current to be reliable with the heavy demand of robotic controls, which all FBL really are.


If you have the money and want name-brand peace-of-mind, Spektrum has listened to popular demand and released an integrated RX with BeastX FBL:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...em-SPMAR7200BX


And I just added this cuz I though you might like it like I do:

http://www.nitroplanes.com/projet-drone-2500mm-kit.html


Let me know what y'all think;


mnem
*Still flogging Axius CP*
Brian - That HobbyMate 800 is one of my picks; it is a rebranded BigAole BeastX clone. Let me know if you still have it and want to make a deal; I'm sure I must have SOMETHING you'll want.


Kozzy - I know; I've seen people zip-tie the motors to the frame too. I don't think it's a good idea, speaking as someone who uses zip-ties on a daily basis for what they're intended for:cable management. Zip-ties degrade under UV light; the locks get brittle with age and break because of exposure, even to fluorescent light. Remember, the "spring" part of a zip-tie is just a bit of plastic 0.020" thick; they are not intended for mission-critical attachment. Also, remember that the lock is also a biggish chunk of plastic which affects the balance of your motor; precise location of that mass is necessary to not throw your motors out of balance.

I know they're so convenient, the temptation is there to use them for EVERYTHING. That's not such a good idea sometimes...


mnem
"Zip Tie" is Geek for "Duct Tape".