ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
I usually have to have shims inside and outside the clutchbell..
Yeah,most of mine do as well. However, I justgo with what feels right.The only stock "good shim" (IMO) thatI have is the 8ight 2.0.
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
If there is a washer behind the capscrew in the crank, make sure there is virtually no movement between the outer clutch bearing and that washer/capscrew.
Good call - will definitely check for that.
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
Also to note.....mm is a LOT of play and is excessive.
I assume you are talking 1mm of ADDITIONAL play, not total, correct? Personally, I like about .5 of total play...but have had 1+mm before and it was fine. However, I've recently started decreasing the play.Sorry this went off course to shimming....but nothing wrong with talking shimming...always looking to learn stuff. ;-)
ORIGINAL: rccheech
I always use a dab of blue threadlock. Worst case scenario I cut a slot in the screw with a dremel and a little heat from a micro torch and it come right out with a standard screwdriver...never been a problem for me at all....even at the track.
Man, I'm just so gun shy with it. I try to go by the book with respect to thread lock; proper amount, change screws every x-times if not worn, use good tools, etc. I even have a micro-torch....but that's one screw I'm scared to death of stripping. If I ever do, however, I now know where to send my engine. ;-)