ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
Ideally, the clutchbell should be seated so the bell covers the clutch shoes completely and has virtually NO play in/out.
Interesting. This is not to imply you are incorrect, but I know a lot of guys who run 1mm play (and suggest it - but they use cheap bearings and replace them very often).With that said, the guy who "mentored" me (for lack of better term) on clutch setups recommended
some play (ideally).25 - .5mm.Additionally, I've yet to be able to shim with NOplay (without the bell binding) but if I could get it down to "no play" or <.25mm I undertand you don't want to run it like that. Again, this is not dismiss your advice....just explaining what I've learned through both consultation and trial/error. ;-)
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
+1 on what rccheech is talking about. I've had to replace that capscrew before, using a dremel and small cut-off wheel does the trick every time.
Yeah, I have a dremmel kit and have converted screws to slots, but I am a bull in a china shop and chance are good I'd jack up the drive shaft.
As prefaced earlier...to-date I've not had to use thread lock, so hopefully in this instance you are correct in that it is the bearings.