MTK

I understand.....Photos don't always do justice.

Your arrow is pointing directly at the strut's tang. The idea is to have a long enough tang to reach the opposite fuse side. The tangs of both struts slide past one another, interlocking. But the main load is still carried by each mounting socket through which each tang is slid. A snug fit between each strut and each mounting socket is of prime importance to assure rattle free performance over time. This is the key advantage over the Wist Model method, on which my technique is based. There is no other mounting hardware required to secure each strut; just the friction between strut and socket......

Each tang is pinned on the opposite fuse side. The easiest pins to use are 4-40 or 2mm bolts secured into blind nuts. I've tried just pieces of music wire before and it was iffy. Each mounting socket has room inside to accommodate each tang tip. The pin goes through each tip locking each strut laterally so they can't move side to side. The sockets on the other hand lock each strut so they can't move neither up or down nor to the rear. Sockets carry and transfer landing and t/o loads to the reinforced fuse side.

We'll continue until it is clear..... Once you do one this way, you'll know and immediately appreciate the logic of the Wist Model engineer that devised it. It's brilliant solution, exceedingly light, simple to actually make and is self aligning once the epoxy has cured. And no screwy screws (other than the pin which carries no load) to ruin your day