Ram-bro, The entire canopy assembly is just clear vacuformed plastic they painted over and left the windows open. I do not like the tinted "glass" as it's not needed and I don't know why they did such a thing. In fact, you can barely see the pilot figure thru the dark "glass." The cowl is all fiberglass. Bottom is open and that was done to keep weight down. I like that part. Installing the SolarTex took a bit of time and cannot be rushed for good results. You need to get a very good vertical line on the fuselage and stay with it. But, if you glass the plane, that would be a better solution. Gives it more strength for protection against every day handling and transport dings and paint will hold up better over the long run. The plane is light enough that you can glass and paint it and still be light, especially using the DLE-55. Just use good glass technique and squeegee off the excess epoxy resin. Same for the painting, don't layer it up more than needed, especially on the tail end.
The main problem I see when folks do monokote and other iron on coverings is that they try to get it done in a big hurry. This is why I have to be "in the mood" to do covering. Some days I just don't have the temperament to do it. You have to do the little things first or the covering won't adhere properly, such as putting thin strips on the edges of the ailerons and flaps so the top and bottom coverings will have a good edge to grab onto. I also run a 3/4" strip over leading edge seams to keep the material from pulling loose from the balsa. Same on the ridge back on the fuselage. Looks good too. Due to the fact that I had to move in the middle of the covering phase, it took me many months to do the job. But, I took my time and am happy with the results. Glad you like it. There are not too many variations in color schemes for the Hellcat. I do like the traditional blues, but so many are out there, I had to do something different. Another good color scheme is the blue fuselage and yellow wings. That's an attention getter for sure. Good luck!
One more thing. When you get to the CG calculation stage, just use the old RC method of 25 to 35 percent MAC and don't bother with the WIld Hare method with the wings off the fuselage. Get a CG balance stand from VicRC and use that. It works very nicely. The wing chord is 20 inches at the fuselage, so the CG should be in the area of 5 inches to 7 inches behind the leading edge at the fuselage. I tend to go with the more conservative 25 to 30 percent MAC for first flights, especially with the rotating gear models, since that shifts the CG aft on retraction. So, somewhere right at 6 inches or slightly less is a pretty good number. This is of course with the retracts in the UP position. On maiden, be ready to drop the gear back down if she acts pitchy with the gear up and you can recover nicely and add more lead to the nose if needed.
Vic RC CG Stand. Nice laser cut aircraft grade plywood kit and assembles in about an hour with yellow glue. You can CG even low wing planes right side up. Vic passed that tip to me and I tried it. Works great. Very much worth the money for all CG calculations.
www.vicrc.com/product_CGerStand.html