I glued the stab and fin on. The elevator and rudder are just taped on.
I used Tightbound 2, and the double glued method. I added a couple of drops of water to a small amount of glue and thinned it just a bit. I then applied that to both surfaces and then allowed it to almost dry. Took 15 -30 minutes. Got to keep checking on it from the 15 minute mark. It should feel moist, but should not be hard. This will allow the glue to soak into the wood real good. That is were the strength comes from. When I felt it was ready I applied more Tightbound (full stregth, not thinned) to both surfaces again. Waited 2 or 3 minutes and then mated the surfaces. This method of glueing will produce a very strong joint. Fact is the joint will not fail, just the surrounding area. And you would be surprised at how far the first gluing penetrates.
So tail surfaces mated to the fuse.
I also stated making my bell crank. I had bought an aluminum bell crank, but it does not seem up to snuff to me.
I have some scrap 1/8" carbon fiber plate pieces. Nothing more than a few inches long. I picked it up many years ago. It was originally used by some one to make carbon fiber RC cars bottom plates from. He water jet cut it.
I used the aluminum bell crank for measurements only. I cut the carbon plate with a hack saw. It now needs a new blade.
I epoxied (only needed a couple of drops) 2 pieces of light ply to the carbon plate.The ply was just to give some depth to the center of bell crank. Next I epoxied a short brass tube to the bell crank as a bearing for my mounting bolt. I will later on add brass bushings to the lead out holes. The wire lead outs would cut through the carbon rather quickly.
I reckon the next thing is to install the bell crank mount plates and blind nut. I do want to be able to get at it for changes if needed.
And look at the work desk. I cleaned it up, organized a bit. Made a holder to hold my epoxy upside down. Lets me get the very last drops out. And the other glues are in a organizer and no longer constantly fall over.
Ken