Started the bell crank installation.


The top runner (bottom in the pic) is two pieces of 1/8" lite ply laminated. It ties into the two bulk heads at either end. It is glued to the fuse doubler full length and also part of the fuse top block. It ain't going no wheres. I drilled a pivot rod hole and put a brass sleeve in that, and then put a small birch ply cap on the top over the hole to stop the rod from going all the way through. And as I am typing this I realized that the birch ply rod stop is not needed at all.


There is another lite runner runs full length between the bulk heads also. One more support is glued vertically between these two runners.


These three pieces will bear 100% of the side load from the bell crank.


The bell crank has a brass tube (pivot tube?) glued in it's pivot hole. Then there is another Piece of brass inside the pivot tube as sleeve bearing. I then have a Piano wire pivot rod through all of this. One wheel collar at the top of the rod, with enough of the rod exposed to go into the top runner brass tube.


A light ply with another brass tube slips over the bottom half of the pivot rod and is screwed to the bottom runner.


So the bell crank is very secure in the plane and is extremely free in rotation. There is not the slightest amount wobble or play in the bell crank.


And the bell crank can be removed for service, and inspection or to change things on it.

Ken