Sorry for the delay, guys. I had a few things come up, but we're back on track!
To answer the question about Loctite, there are many formulations of threadlocker. See below for more than you probably ever wanted to know on the subject. These number correspond to the Loctite brand, however most threadlockers that I've seen follow the same general color coding guidelines.
271, Red: High strength threadlocker for larger diameter hardware.
262, Red: High strength threadlocker for hardware smaller than that which uses 271.
609, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, for mounting slip fit bearings to shafts. An appropriate product for tail boxes.
603, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, similar to 609 but good where the parts may be a little oily.
640: Green: Retaining compound, high strength. Similar to 609 and 603. Lacks the oil tolerance of 603. Use use it where there might be trouble with adjacent bearing contamination with the product.
638, Green, rather thick: Ultra strong retaining compound for assemblies with a marked amount of slop in the fit, min 0.004".
290, Green: Wicking product for thread locking AFTER assembly. Medium strength, much stronger than 242 blue in my experience.
242, 243 Blue: Classic medium strength threadlocker for most of our threadlocking applications. 243 is the oil tolerant version.
222MS, Purple: Low strength threadlocker for small diameter or otherwise delicate fasteners.
Bottom line, I use 242 for pretty much everything with pattern planes. Sometimes 290 can be helpful when assembling linkages and such, but I'm really not that diverse in my use of threadlocker.
ESC INSTALLATION
I like to take this time to install the ESC while everything is still accessible and before the motor has been permanently installed. I learned through Dave Lockhart, who I believe was told this by Steve Rogers at Castle Creations, that bullet connectors do not perform well in permanent/semi-permanent installations. They are designed to be used, not connected once and left dormant. Because of this, I hardwired the wires together on the ESC and motor. It’s a little more work to do, but yields a very nice installation with ancillary bonus of saving considerable weight.
Since the soldering iron is already out, I decided to go ahead and solder the battery connector to the ESC to mount the ESC permanently. I am a recovering EC3 user having recently converted back to Dean’s Ultra connectors so I was primed for this to be an exercise in futility. My soldering skills have improved greatly since the last time I soldered a Dean’s Ultra plug, as has my patience level. I approached the process with a little better order of operations thinking of how I could use fixtures to make my life easier. I used a few scraps of wood, some wooden clothespins and other forms of questionable engineering to stabilize the connecter itself, as well as the wires while I soldered them. I found the process to be easier than soldering my beloved bullets for EC3s and am a bit puzzled as to why I didn’t figure this out a long time ago. I felt that the actual solder joint was a lot better than some of the solder joints I’ve done on bullet connectors, and I had the added benefit of being able to visually inspect the solder joint afterwards. I’m happy with my decision to revert back to Dean’s Ultra connectors.
I found that there were no provisions to pass an assembled battery connector through the main forward bulkhead, so I merged two of the lightening holes in that former. I’ve found that many countries prefer to use bullet connectors for their battery/ESC connection, and bullets are featured in the instruction manual. No big deal, and it takes all of one minute to do a nice job on.
Because the Edge 100 Lite does not have any mounting tabs, I simply doubled some double-sided foam tape on the backside of the controller, and secured it with a piece of Velcro. Quick, painless, lightweight, and secure; time now to permanently mount the motor and move on to grander things.