There's some great stuff here thanks very much for all the advise ! Hopefully in the next couple days I will be able to try some of these ideas.
I pulled all the switch setup / cables out and it turns out there is a 5v regulator in the system so the batts I was trying were only delivering 5v anyway. I didn't know it was in there I just through it was part of the opto kill system (was already in the frame when I got it) anyway its something to check out being faulty etc.
But again, thanks everyone I do appreciate your input. Ive got a good list of things to investigate / try in the next couple of days when I can get it out !
Are you sure you have the spark plug cap all the way on the spark plug. When installed correctly the wire snap ring will be all the way past the hex of the spark plug.It goes on very hard at first and even harder to get off.
Yip thanks definitely on proper, a right pain to get off
Forgot, if you have a rear mounted carb you probably will not need to perform the above "normalizing" procedure. It is more conducive to side draft carbs. Upload a picture and give me the link to your video. and I will see if I can be of some assistance to your tuning efforts.Regards Glenn Williams
Thanks Glenn for your advice, Ive got the rear mounted carb but this is worth investigating further. Ill see if I can get some pics next time I get it out to test.
Have you checked your plug? Is it white? Brown? Sopping wet? Sounds rich. I'm going on my third year running a 6.6 V Life without a reg. with no issues on the old style CDI.
Plug is a sandy brown color. That should be ok shouldn't it ?
1) Don't run over 5V on the older DLE ignitions.
2) Adjust the high end needle to the rich side on the ground dropping RPM 300-400 from max.
3) Cowled engines build up pressure from the prop which is further increases in the air causing mixture changes. Perform the mod on the cover plate using a glow engine muffler pressure tap and solder in place and grind off the inside flush so it won't disturb the diaphragm. Run tubing into the fuse to a 35mm film canister that also has a vent hole drilled into the other side. This will give static air that is unaffected from the pressure of the cowling.
4) Do yourself a favor and drill some holes in the cowl so you don't have to pull the prop and cowl every time you want to tweak the needles.You can run brass tubing from the needles to the edge of the cowl to help guide the screwdriver right to the needle.
Thanks, Ive got some holes in the cowl for adjusting the valves. Its quite a big cowl (compared to the engine) and I could understand a lot of pressure build up in there and although there is a lot of hole underneath for flow, perhaps I could open up some more...
I just got my dle 35 running pretty well !! After about 2 weeks of pulling my hair out. "And I am the motor guy in our club"
1. Does it miss without the cowl on?? problem could be either heat or pressure related.
2. Tune the high speed first then the low. back them out to 1.5 turns start there. Cowl Off !!!
You have to first isolate what is happening. The only way to do that is to run the motor with ample airflow and see how it responds. Mine ran awesome for 30 minutes then sat for 2 weeks because the weather went to crap. Then wouldn't run..... ended up rebuilding the carb now she runs great without the cowl on..... but as soon as I put the cowl on it misses like crazy and I have to back out the needles to get it to run fair...... I am guessing a heat issue "with mine" could be the same with yours????
Thanks, yea It does miss without the cowl but I must admid it does run better without it. It also runs better on the ground than in the air. Definitely an area to investigate further