Yes, I do have an extremely fast and over-powered system. But as you said, it CAN handle it. With a few adjustments and upgrades, it will work and be reliable. After I replace the plastic spur with a metal one, it should work for months to come.... I think I'm one of the few that are forced to get a metal spur because even the RRP stealth ones that I'm using are stripping. I have even jammed the mesh as tight as possible to make a really strong, but stiff mesh. Then I let it wear in. It still stripped after a few runs. So I haven't run my Evader since last fall...
The best Evader I think that Duratrax came out with, was the Evader Brushless. It had a bulletproof tranny, cool body, killer brushless system, ok tires, and an awesome wheelie bar/front bumper. The only bad part IMO was the plastic shocks. A better set of tires too would make it a very desirable machine. But guess what,.... They had the awesome and great RC that they came out with that was gonna put Duratrax on the billboards, AND THEY DISCONTINUE THE THING!!! WHY?!? You can still buy parts for it though, which is what I did. I took my Evader ST and bought many of the Evader Brushless parts and bolted them on. Now my Evader is quite custom and much like the Evader Brushless. Members here will show and explain to you how to hop it up to be strong and reliable. As stated before, I did not follow the motor size guidelines, and have dearly paid for it in broken parts.... But once you feel the power, going with a smaller motor is ridiculous in your mind. Never again will it run on something smaller than a 10.5T extra large 540. Evader is definitely a good choice. I can think of better ones, but the Evader is one of the best, and with about $200 in hop ups, can be made perfect.
BTW @ Rob, I believe they are called "Bevel Gears", and not "Sun Gears".
And the little ones inside are called "Spider Gears". And I'm pretty sure those "pins behind the sun gears" are called "Differential Output Joint Pins". And.... jk jk lol Just pick'in on ya!
I sheared one of those pins off once. It makes a nasty sound that makes you shriek in terror wondering what just happened to your expensive vehicle. (After hop ups) When it happened to me it happened during a speed run. So it coasted to a stop with a grinding sound. I took it apart to see the transmission looking normal, then popped the diff case side and saw a stubbed pin. That's when Rob lead me to making music wire pins, and I haven't had a problem since. Music wire is definitely the way to go!
Anymore specific questions?
