Originally Posted by EXT2Rob

Actually, Tower Hobbies carries OEM aluminum parts for the Evader. Some are no longer available, but most are. However the only ones I'd recommend spending the money on are not too bad, like the front hinge pin brace, it's only $3 and is well worth it. The front bulkhead might also be good to get, and I like the aluminum motor plate as it helps cool the motor.

These bumpers from T-bone Racing are great. THey will go a long way to making your Evader bashable.
http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/D...2-ST-p183.html
http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/D...2-ST-p158.html

I mentioned the music wire. I was breaking wheel drive pins when I switched to brushless. THe drive pins are hollow, roller-pins, and they just don't hold up. You can get music wire at your hobby shop. It's make by K&S Precision Metals. Stock # 504 0.062in (1.57mm) works for the drive wheels. They don;t fit tight, and tend to fall out when you take the wheel off, but they'll never break. Stock #502 is 0.047in (1.19mm) and can be used in the Duratrax CV axels but also in the metal diff. There are two pins that each hold one of the drive cups in the diff and that are driven by the large "sun gears". Those pins can also break, and of they do, your diff gears can get munched. Replace that pin behind the sun gears with music wire pins and you'll never need worry. ALSO, on that metal diff, you'll want to first take it all apart and clean everything, especially the screw holes. Then use blue loctite for the screws during reassembly. If any of those screws come loose and you loose diff gear mesh, PFFT! there goes your diff gears again. So make sure those screws don't come loose. I also suggest using TrakPower Waterproof Gear Grease in the diff instead of silicone fluid, as well as for the tranny gears.

Have fun with it!

Originally Posted by DieHarder

Yes, I do have an extremely fast and over-powered system. But as you said, it CAN handle it. With a few adjustments and upgrades, it will work and be reliable. After I replace the plastic spur with a metal one, it should work for months to come.... I think I'm one of the few that are forced to get a metal spur because even the RRP stealth ones that I'm using are stripping. I have even jammed the mesh as tight as possible to make a really strong, but stiff mesh. Then I let it wear in. It still stripped after a few runs. So I haven't run my Evader since last fall...

The best Evader I think that Duratrax came out with, was the Evader Brushless. It had a bulletproof tranny, cool body, killer brushless system, ok tires, and an awesome wheelie bar/front bumper. The only bad part IMO was the plastic shocks. A better set of tires too would make it a very desirable machine. But guess what,.... They had the awesome and great RC that they came out with that was gonna put Duratrax on the billboards, AND THEY DISCONTINUE THE THING!!! WHY?!? You can still buy parts for it though, which is what I did. I took my Evader ST and bought many of the Evader Brushless parts and bolted them on. Now my Evader is quite custom and much like the Evader Brushless. Members here will show and explain to you how to hop it up to be strong and reliable. As stated before, I did not follow the motor size guidelines, and have dearly paid for it in broken parts.... But once you feel the power, going with a smaller motor is ridiculous in your mind. Never again will it run on something smaller than a 10.5T extra large 540. Evader is definitely a good choice. I can think of better ones, but the Evader is one of the best, and with about $200 in hop ups, can be made perfect.

BTW @ Rob, I believe they are called "Bevel Gears", and not "Sun Gears". And the little ones inside are called "Spider Gears". And I'm pretty sure those "pins behind the sun gears" are called "Differential Output Joint Pins". And.... jk jk lol Just pick'in on ya!

I sheared one of those pins off once. It makes a nasty sound that makes you shriek in terror wondering what just happened to your expensive vehicle. (After hop ups) When it happened to me it happened during a speed run. So it coasted to a stop with a grinding sound. I took it apart to see the transmission looking normal, then popped the diff case side and saw a stubbed pin. That's when Rob lead me to making music wire pins, and I haven't had a problem since. Music wire is definitely the way to go!

Anymore specific questions?