rossmick

I did not care for the attachment between the stab and the vertical fin. I had extended the main spar and to that I added two extended blocks attached to the spar and the TE as well as the thickened tip rib. I then added a stiffener on the top of the upper rib and another under the lower rib. These ribs span the extended blocks and with a small shim the fin fits very snug to the stab. All the attachment photos except the last two show the vertical fin mounted upside down. Funny when you are working so close you don't see it until later. Lucky I did not glue them up !!

I also added a hard wood block to the bottom the rudder and then tapped in a set screw from the inboard side that holds the rudder hinge pin in place but allows it to be removed if you want to take off the rudder for repair and painting.

After spending more than a week getting the location of the outboard light in the fin, I was able to install the conduit for the electrical wire for the lights. I used the larger tubes as the smaller was a tight fit and I wanted some slack so as to move the wire through with more ease. The 90 degree bend at the tip and up in to the fin will keep the wire from being moved very much so I gave myself plenty of extra.

I decided on strip LED lights, but figuring out how to mount them took several attempts. I came up with a ply spacer plate and then a ply ribbon holding strip under the spacer, this gives the clearance needed to the LED as it sticks up 1/16. The spacer plate also will server as the area where the screws for the lens frame will attach. I want the lights to be removable in case there is a failure and with three LEDs on a strip I will be able to just move the strip around to get to the other LED.
Fins are dry fit at the moment and as soon as I determine the correct position for the fin I will glue them in. Last two photos show fins mounted correctly.