I have this exact same problem. With the same tank. You would have one or both problems, too many tracks or too much play in the idler wheels. Watch the rear idlers on the tank while driving it, see if it is turning and not simply having the tracks dragged across it. If your rear idler isn't turning much, that tells you some things, that probably have too many tracks and can remove one or two or, your idler screw is too tight. Even if the idler wheel is turning of course you could still have too many tracks.

First start by removing one or two tracks to make the whole assembly shorter. On the Tiger 1 you can remove 1 track at a time until you can't remove anymore, (on my King Tiger tracks you have to remove minimum of two, or none, because of the way they are made). I think i wound up removing 2 each side (From 97 tracks to 95 or something like that). And this helped keep the tracks in place a lot longer but did not fix the problem completely.

With mine part of the problem is too much play in the idler wheels. There's no way to eliminate all of the slop but often you can reduce it. If you can find bearings that fit inside of it, or metal wheels with them at the internet parts shops, that might work.

I fitted metal suspension arms because the plastic arms would allow the wheels flex outwards. Also "upgradE" susp arm springs that are stiffer and this helped some. But until I get the play out of the rear idler wheels I am going to have the problem still. trying to fix this issue it is very easy to find yourself throwing money at the problem. If the cheap ways of fixing the track throwing issue don't help, a decision has to be made on how much does this problem bother you and how much into the hobby are you, and what you can afford-sometimes after all the low cost mods have been done, simply slowing down on turns is enough!

Hopefully after trying all the low or no cost options that will keep the tracks from going out of place, that and just slow down on turns. If none of those things work, the only one left is to either buy the Taigen lower hull, (which has all the things i just mentioned already fitted, has adjustable idlers and metal susp arms with stiff springs. Also the Taigen hull has metal reinforcement so the hull is stiffer and won't flex much, and is just better in every way then the hull that comes with the tank) for about a $100, or get the Henntec idle wheel tensioner, for about $70. If you finally have to choose one or the other, I'd choose to just upgrade the whole hull instead of the Henntec. Since the Henntec adresses part of the problem whereas going to the Taigen hull might be a more comprehensive solution.