Here are some pics showing the steps after gluing in the rib reinforcements. The first is the clamping of the new pieces after gluing. Gorilla glue needs an hour to set. The second is the balsa pieces laid in under the wing sheeting with super glue gel. the third is the original sheet pieces that were cut out to gain access put back in their original locations for a trial fit before final gluing. This method is as strong as the uncut sheeting and has withstood my sometimes ham fisted landing technique. A light sanding with fine paper on a long block and they are barely visible. Don't press down hard when sanding or the sheeting will become too thin over the ribs. Use DAP light weight spackle applied with a credit card to fill voids, wait over night to finish sand and it is ready to cover. I am using the opportunity to cover with Ultracote (Oracover) silver as the original North American paint used was primer over a putty glaze to fill the rivets and panel lines then silver. Some theaters got different colors. Earlier models were camo and replacement planes were silver. When you see panel lines and rivets on a model wing it is because the builder is copying an airshow plane. I have seen some racers use the glaze finish method for speed. Most surviving warbirds have been refinished many times and the glaze has been omitted as expensive, heavy and time consuming. The only detail you should see on a combat model is fuel filler, static ports, machine gun access ports, and gun and fueling nomenclature. There is usually a few other stencils applied but you have to look at photos a the particular plane you are copying. As for the control surfaces go by the pictures you have. I like the Ultra cote because it goes around compound curves a little better than the TF stuff and wrinkles less in the Fla. sun.