The point that I got out of his presentation mostly was thinning the resin 50% with denatured alcohol. I have always been leary of doing this, as the threat of a "Solvent" trap exists. The 2 big benefits here, is that the resin penetrates the wood on the first application, and also, it is nice to be able to "paint" down the glass during the initial application. Especially with the curves. Just globbing puddles of resin and spreading it with the credit card, can be tricky on a complex curved fuselage. The thin resin is the key to the whole presentation I believe. That last, 3rd, "Flow coat", is one of the old secrets of the scale guys to get a good finish.
Also, I am not sure on the ratio being biased more towards resin than hardener. It would be easy to find out if this was a mistake, as it kind of goes against what you would think. I just make sure I get my resin measured out accurately, and have found the best way to do this is to use a small scale. Ever since I started weighing my resin, it comes out perfect everytime. I am sold on 'EZ lam", from ACP composites. When it is fully cured, it sands very easily. I use the 30 min, and it takes 12 hours or more to cure. Which is fine with me as I do not want it setting up while I am in the middle of a glassing project.
I am just now in the finishing stages of my glassing on the TA 152, so this process is at the fore front of my thoughts. I just wish it would warm up again. Resin does not like to cure when it is cold!