Gray, I'm sorry for not posting sooner, but I got my problems ironed out..
as the picture reflects. I was using just a touch to much heat. I dropped the temp by 10 degrees as I tend to hold the covering to long while heating( learned from using monokote.)
This film is so much easier to work with. When heated it becomes very pliable where MonoKote you typically have to work the wrinkles out with so much pulling resistance. Some wrinkles on the flat surface came out that I can't believe did. MonoKote with the same wrinkles, and you better start over cause there done.
Anyone reading this thread read all the suggestions about adding blocks of wood to the tip. I didn't do this. The only change I made was from MonoKote to Ultracoat, and the problem was solved. I can't imagine if covering a compound tip like this can be done how fast applying it to typical structures would be.
Overall money very well spent, and you wrote something very true. The finish on the model should be fun. I enjoyed working with the film, and taught myself a couple new techniques at least there new for me. I found tilting the iron on about 45 degrees, and using the edge to apply downward pressure on the film very effective for attaching, and getting the last of the wrinkles out.
This made me realize MonoKote should really only be used for trim, and that's what I plan on using it for.
The other huge plus when working with this covering is removal. If you need to reposition it simply apply heat, and gently lift. You simply can't do that with MonoKote without the losing its color layer. Trying to remove MonoKote is usually more time consuming then building a new part, and covering it literally.
