sjhanc
Thanks for the info on the gear doors, I was just going to attach them with the swivel arms off the struct and hinge at the base - looks like plan B.
Just spent the whole day and two 50 mile round trips to the hobby shop to get the installed air system to quit leaking. Admitting this is my first air system install I am sure I have just made all the standard mistakes. Example, when removing the air line from a plastic T do not use the exacto to cut the line. I did that and damaged the T's so that they leaked - trip 1 to get more T's. Using the tried and true soapy spray method I identified all leaks and replaced the damaged T's (4 in all). Here I learned to just pull the line off, and it takes some tugging to get it done. With the air supply (air tank or compressor) attached all was fine, remove the air source and down goes the pressure. So now the bran new Robart Fill valve leaked like a sieve. Trip 2, and this time I picked up a BVM fill value with the recommendation from the turbo guys that it was the best, and voila no more leaks. Just checked after 4 hours and still have the same pressure 100# + pressure - feeling better now. I did take the valve stem out of the Robart and it was not the same as a standard valve stem that I had seen, no O ring on the stem but saw it down in the fill barrel. Appears to me that BVM has the advantage here as it is insert air line, turn on air, and pull line when finished. Next time I think I will look in to BVM T's if there is such a thing.
Question to all - what other surprises can I expect with the air system, also how low should you go before filling? I do have a pressure gauge in the P51 so I can see the pressure, gage agrees with pressure gage on compressor, I also have a 7 gal. portable air tank I filled to 125#s and it seems to work for at least 3 fills before pressure goes under 100, what do you guys use and what is a good procedure?