You lucky dog! I bought the box full of plastic wrapped bits at multiples of that cost.

Functionally, mounting servos that way would be fine, but a bit on the ugly side if looking at a scale build.That's the primary reason I try to hide all the controls internally. Not possible with the way they have the ailerons. You cannot see that sitting on the ground, nor in flight, so not so bad. Some have installed thin-wing servos, (such as my fave, the HS-125MG) in each stab similar to what is used for the ailerons. Nothing wrong with that, but as stated, I like things internal and that only requires one servo. In that case you will want one of good quality with no gear slop.

The V2 tail had supposedly better bonding and thicker walled cross tubes. I checked my V1 and with the other mods the standard tubes looked fine for the rather small size of the stabs themselves. So far so good as I suspect the same flutter that was causing failure of the stabs may have also caused problems there.

Pay attention to the 1/4" deflection limit of the stock elevators. For scale flying this would demand a good control system, something the stock setup could not supply. It also should not impose huge loads on the stab structure if flying it scale. In that most turns would be relatively tame, with no swapping of ends. Just high speeds that can and will induce control flutter if not prevented.

Make note of the fact flutter is almost exclusively a result of high speed showing deficiencies in the control system, airfoil design or structure. I believe the fact this airplane was capable of more than what the horizontal tail could handle was the result of a deficient control design, rather disproportionate elevator/stab area and questionable build quality. We've pretty well settled on the correct fixes and they seem to work well.

That brings up another factor. I rarely work with the stock hinges and hardware supplied with kits or ARFs like these and go with trusted gear such as DuBro.CA hinges are a definite NO with anything larger than park flyer in any event, (they will fail at some point, higher loads and/or cold weather simply accelerates that process) so pin type would be mandatory here. If installed correctly they will be smooth and slop free, another guarantee towards limiting flutter.

On a final note, that DLE 20 may be perfect if my comparisons are correct, (the Satio G-20 is the petro version of the 125 I have in mine). One thing to watch is more critical if you use the stock vibration damper mount supplied with the kit, (yours looks like a composite plastic type so not likely a problem). In some cases it actually increases what gets into the airframe by allowing the motor/mount assembly to move so much it builds up energy along the way. Even so, I would make one recommendation to start with a wooden prop. This is my standard procedure for new airframes as any mistake that leads to impact sacrifices the prop, but saves the motor.

Having said that, I should follow my own advice here. The Bear does not have time to work up elevator on landing as it flips immediately upon touching down.

I have been a conventional gear convert for years, to the point I am much more comfortable with a tailwheel than one on the other end. As will most, the Bear likes a bit of toe-in on the mains for good ground behavior. If there were any way to shorten the legs things would likely be fine.



As mentioned, there are a few other issues other than the tail, one in particular the bond job inside the wing where the tube is fit. The balsa ribs were pitifully soft and on mine not bonded to the spars at all. Ripped loose the second flight.

Also, do not count on the stock gear mounts holding up. Again, very soft wood all round and questionable bonding job. I learned along the way to spend more time on critical areas like these BEFORE they come out to bite.

Stone17, have you had time to read through this thread?