Originally Posted by
Portlandflyer
Matt,
I will do what I can to help. In fact one reason I am taking the time to do this is because of all I have learned from your post over the years. I even went the carbon route like you did on one of my builds. I find I add so little weight with the medium silkspan, I don't use the ultra light stuff. I think I may only save a very few grams on a bipe wing. I have been thinking about the tissue you used as you have mentioned it before. The reason I went with silkspan in the first place was due to you. For that, i thank you.
Thanks, I can use assistance with the graphics and masks. I bought the last set of masks from Kirby and that was almost 100$, ouch. If I can make them myself, heck the cost becomes nil.
Ultra light silkspan is a tuffy. Try using a very light mist from a fine spray bottle but don't get it dripping wet. It becomes impossible to work with when wet but not terrible when just misted. I figured out how on the last set of stabs for the Delta that I built from sticks a couple years back. Still, I found it best to tack the perimeter first and let the paper dry first. It becomes drum tight making bedding a cinch.
For wings, medium grade is the proper one to use. Silkspan takes some filler coats....
I found the Esaki Jap tissue at Sig which they call Plyspan (not polyspan which is a spun polyester). At 2$ a 2'x3' sheet it's rather inexpensive. They sell all grades at 2$ a sheet. The medium is very nice. Lays down easily especially when misted and far easier to work with when wet. It takes some effort to rip it when wet. I think I like this material the best so far. The heavy is like rebar in strength but at 2- 2 1/2 mil thickness is like putting on fiberglass and you get no weight benefits. It's lighter than glass but not much.
Try doctor blading the paint directly onto the paper. Doctor blading is the age old technique we used to use with epoxy and glass. It results in a smoother surface and reduces the work load (less brushing and paint needed)