Good deal Terry. I've been using the thing pretty much daily since I built it and have already used it exactly as I hoped, RC parts as well as armatures for figures.
Unless you already have a background in CAD, I'd grab SketchUP Make before you get your kit and play around with it. I grabbed a bunch of books from the library on it and 3D printing in general, but I figured out most of the pitfalls/solutions by then.
Just this morning I needed a part to make a turntable. 63.56mm across, with multiple depths for a gear and a center pin. In about 5 minutes on the computer and 20 minutes print time I had the precise part in my hand.
If there's any questions once you get the kit, fire away. The online manual is a bit different than the kit I got (simple things that they've improved, you'll see), so don't get put off, especially by the hardware bags. Everything is in there, even though it seems like you're a bolt or two short.
I leveled the table before I set it up, but I also needed to secure it to the table. I built it on a flat surface (this will all make more sense when you get it), but must have tweaked it when I moved it to the table because I had a hard time leveling the bed consistently. Instead of rebuilding the frame, I squared it by securing it to the bench, but if you're careful, you shouldn't need to. Once I had that set, it was smooth sailing.
Two things that gave me trouble post assembly, both with the Z axis. Easy fixes, but easier if you do it during assembly. The nuts that the Z drives push are supposed to get pushed into the housings. One of mine popped out no matter how what, it's best to glue them in. Second, theres a fine adjust screw for setting the Z end stop. Don't use it, there's enough play in it that it won't 'home' consistently. Just set the stop like the others, on the motor or frame. You're printing at 100 microns, so a tiny bit off the home setting is enough and the screw movement is enough.
One thing I didn't understand at first was the end stops just set the home position, not meant as a safety stop. Home position and temperature is everything. Once both are set to the bed and material, you're golden.
This probably all sounds scary, but it isn't. It's all stuff I figured out just playing around, you'll find out a bunch as you go along too. The software works very well, you setup the file as a STL, then Slic3r preps it and generates the g code, the Repetier runs it. It'll turn on the bed, once it heats, it'll turn on the extruder, once it's at the temp away it goes.
Mine has almost paid for itself already. I've printed end caps for water tight chambers for my subs. Completely set up to my specs with O ring grooves and tapers, soon to have servo mounts, etc.
The Glow in the Dark stuff is cool, almost transparent, but I haven't really looked into how bright or long it glows yet. The Hatchbox filament on Amazon is great so far, I bought both PLA and ABS. You'll need some to get started. The Gurus will send you a roll of their stuff once you're up and running and happy.