Moving on, posting pics is not working right, last night I was able to make progress on the left wing. Earlier I epoxied the right wing servo mounts so the wings were even. Now the left wing has the doors figured out for the most part.
For starters the stock hinges are pretty rough and weak. They literally used aluminum tubing epoxied in place and cut. The hinge center lines don't match up on the main doors and the epoxy and filler used is brittle. I cut them all out, they are useless and more trouble than they are worth.
On the main gear doors the as with the full scale doors the issue is the pivot point. They positioned the pivot point as close to the skin and edge as possible. The edge will need to tuck in when the door opens so there must be a small gap. The full scale plane has this small gap between the door edge and the wing skin and center rib. I cut the door corners open to pull out the aluminum tube and epoxied with microballoon filler some bass wood blocks. With the filler and wood I reshape the corners and use the large Robart pin hinges to mount the doors. I drilled the holes tangent to the inner skin of the door and with a square file profiled the hole to fit the pin hinge. I used a Dremel to profile the relief cut so the hinge will pivot.
The next fidgety part is setting the doors to the wing and each other. There is plenty of flange in the gear bay for the doors to sit on so I cut them back to about 3-4mm wide. Reason is the doors are made from two molded parts and the door flange is tapered inside to outer edge cross section and varies in thickness all around. So, out of the box the doors do not fit the wing and you must adjust them if you want a nice flush finish.
On the left wing at the leading edge the wing cut out was over cut by the factory. I wish I could post pics like normal to illustrate this problem because that will require a backfill and hand work to fix.
After careful adjustment the main door is seated and now I can locate the hinges to the center rib. I made a decision to use square wooden dowel with a hole bored to receive the pin hinge. In this instance the distance to center and the gap needed between the door inner edge and rib are the same. This means the distance is now set by the simple hinge block and can be repeated in the future should there be an issue and the door is ripped off. The rest of the door perimeter is good and looks nice. I had to adjust the wing flange and the door flange to get the door as low and flush as possible. You have to take your time.
Now the gear door is next. This door did not match the wing, it's too flat while the wing has more curve. To fix this I used a razor saw and slit the trailing edge that needed to twist to match the wing. By doing this I'm able to flex the part and CA glue it to the right contour. One cut and the part fits just right. Again the flanges of both the wing and door had to be adjusted in order to get the door to be flush to the wing.
Next part was the air cylinder and door horn. The wing was designed with a tube wing spar that is placed right in the gear bay. You can't have a scale wheel well unless you redesign the wing structure because the wing spar is laminated foam.... no wood from what I can see or tell.
That being the case there are a bunch of things in the way of getting a realistic door actuator location and installation. Add to the problem is the main wheel tire. It's right where you want the cylinder to be. There happens to be a small pocket next to both the tire and the wing tube that geometricly places the air cylinder in a decent position. Using the Robart 1 inch throw cylinders the base will need a 25mm standoff from the inner wing skin. The location of the horn on the wing is at 27mm by 30mm from the edges, again a photo would help here. It ends up in a fairly scale position too.
Now the left wing doors seat and match well and I'm looking forward to the right wing now that I understand how it worked.