Ok so I returned to the parts and firstly tried to pull apart the hinge. I could not get it to budge and it took two of us pulling until the wood gave away. The pacer hinge glue seems to be certainly up to the job and I am confident it will handle the big 3D surfaces.
Next the sheet glued at 90 degrees into a slot on another piece of sheet; pulling one way and it did not budge but the other way it gave way quite easily and it did not take any wood with it. Then the epoxy glass horns were tested and the same unsatisfactory result.
I decided to try again and this time I allowed the Superphatic to sink into the wood before adding more once joined. I also retried the horn to wood join but this time I used a proper piece of balsa (I used a coffee stirrer wood stick last time). Both were significantly better. The super phatic on the epoxy horn is not easy to remove even with a knife.
I tried standard aliphatic on the 90 degree balsa joint and it was as good as the Superphatic.
I think I may use Aliphatic on the stab and run in Superphatic once fully cured?
The result with the Epoxy horns looks promising and I will try one more time to see if the results come out the same.
The fit/ engineering of the model means there is greater strength/gluing areas built in anyway so that will also add to my confidence.
So this is all about my having been a cyano and epoxy user who is now having to learn about and trust other glues. It is not a scientific test, just a bit of trial and error, but I thought it may be useful to others to to share my experiences.