I did hear that the needles can be different?. Not sure if that is fact or fiction though.

This is my break in procedure:

Gap the plug to 0.010".
Open main needle to 1 3/4 - 2 turns out.
Set the regulator brass screw flush with the housing.
Open the break in needle around 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
Use the prop I'm going to fly with.
Once the engine starts, set it at a fast idle for a couple of minutes.
Slowly open the throttle until full throttle is reached. I don't hold it at full throttle for long. If it misfires through the mid range, lean the regulator 1/8th of a turn at a time until it stops misfiring. If it transitions smoothly, I richen the regulator 1/8th turn at a time until it starts to misfire through the mid range, then back it off 1/8th of a turn.
Run at full throttle. Set the main needle to run as rich as possible without misfiring.
Set the idle slow as possible while still being reasonably smooth.
When the engine transitions and runs at full throttle without misfiring, let it idle. If it slows down noticeably, lean the reg 1/8th of a turn at a time until it holds a steady idle. If it speeds up richen the reg.
Once it can hold a steady idle, let it idle for 30 - 40 seconds and then open the throttle fairly quickly. If it misfires, lean the reg and vice versa if it just quits.
As soon as it runs, idles and transitions reliably, I fly.
I don't pull big verticals or run at full power for too long for the first few flights.
After 2 flights, I start to gradually lean the reg and needle over the next few flights until the optimum settings are reached, erring on the rich side.
Once tuning is done, close the break in needle to almost fully closed.

i used to run my own mix 30 nitro,10 Coolpower MV. I now use Raoicon 30/10 - Had to lean the reg. 1/2 a turn when I switched to Rapicon.

i don't do anything special at the end of the day. Just empty the tank and run the engine until it stops. I replace bearings and seals every 150 flights.