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05-21-2017 | 08:42 AM

#24

mgnostic

Joined: Jan 2003

Posts: 1,957

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Received 269 Likes on 182 Posts

From: Kamay, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by moparbob498

Mgnostic, hello- I've come to realize I have a touch of ocd....So I have a problem with leaving things well enough alone, with that getting into the open, I like to enhance stuff I do, attempt at doing the very best to my ability, & learn from there?? I chose to do the spit first "because" I feel I can handle it, just some of the directions, unlabeled kit parts!! & Umm I kinda know where what gos & why & what it does, love building the washout into the wing assembly, can actually see the twist in it to the root, ect...Built chassis for stock car, drag cars, did motor cross, built v-8's, & 2-strokes (dirt bikes) always Built the plastic models, first balsa plane was a guillows fw190 a6 ...Been hooked ever since, BAD... Like ocd'ed out on buying kits off eBay.....Lol,...Paid too much for a couple I think, as I already feel I could scratch build & only improve....Also draw, air brush, play guitar, carpell tunnel has taken so much, back injury, taken so much, & I can scuddle around on the floor, ya that's my work shop, blocked up 4 x 8 sheet of drywall, seems to work well so far, I like alot of the set ups other fellas' have, & the tips/tech/all-out everyone's skills....I feel at home reading thru these threads, the 50+ one makes me laugh & cry @ same time,...Fond memories there guys,..Thank you,. & Thank you to all that have taken the time to steer me right, I respect what I'm being told....Like I said, I feel "really" at home reading "some" of the threads..
Bob
I'm trying to save the bf109 & fw190 d9 next, usually gets better as I go,... About the maple mounts, they're about 12-17" long, if I go electric, do I want to remove that heavy rail road tie & modify for electric, or build so either may be used? I think I know the fuselage & wings ect... I'm treating this as though it's my race car, chassis very important, absorbs engine harmonics & has psi per sq. inch, (wing load, right?) & & My incidence are going to be at 0° - other builds I've seen on this , the elevator incidence had been changed? Different model make I suppose, quite a few very nice build threads on these spits' & I probably forgot something, sorry for rambling guys
I just really enjoy being able to do something again, it's been a couple years of , omg - what do I do?

I hear ya on the back injuries and OCD traits. A lot of the activities that you mention make good use of OCD traits, you just have to know when to say done. As to the maple motor mounts. They are usually seen in designs that predate prefabbed motor mounts. Or at least their designers did. With gas engines the beams tie the fuselage together. As you note it transmits torque and absorbs vibration. A lot of newer models have some sort of box structure within the interior of the fuselage that serves the same purpose, tying the firewall to the rest of the fuselage. With square box fuselages the designer often just uses triangle stock to reinforce the firewall joint. If you do away with the beam mounts you should also take a close look at the firewall. At least with the few that I have built, beam mount models tend to have a thinner firewall. If you are going to hang the motor off of the firewall you had better make sure that it is at least 1/4 inch aircraft ply and that it ties to the sides of the fuselage in some manner.
I just went and took a look at an online copy of the plans. If you are going to go with a glow fuel motor I would stick with the beam mounts. The down side is that inverted motors can be a bit of a pain. If you go with gasoline of electric then you can eliminate the beams but you will need the stronger firewall. One benefit of eliminating the beam is that it would make room for a nice big LiPo pack with a hatch on the top of the fuselage. If you are converting to electric be sure to allow for airflow across the controller and the battery. Basically you would replace F3 with 1/4 ply. You might also want to laminate the fuselage sides with some 1/64 or 1/32 ply from the firewall back to the wing mounts if you are going to remove the beams and use a fuel engine. Put it on the insides and trim F-3, F-4 and F-5 accordingly.
One of the nice thing about building is that if you are willing to take the inherent risk of changing a known design, you can change up a plane to modernize it or make it a reflection of some design idea that you have. Based on your previous hobbies/activities you probably have the skills to think through and carry out design changes but like any experiment there is a chance it won't pan out. All that said, if it was me I would keep the beams and hang a four stoke on the nose. Dump the wooden pushrods and go with nyrods and put an aileron servo in each of the wings. I would also use captive nuts instead of wood screws for mounting the engine.

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