RCU Forums - View Single Post - Anyone Still Doing Conversions?
View Single Post
Old 11-09-2017, 02:25 PM
  #4  
av8tor1977
My Feedback: (6)
 
av8tor1977's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 7,217
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I will try to help out. With the configuration of the Poulan engines, they are most often mounted by making plates that bolt to the crankcase screws for the crankcase halves, and extend outwards to the sides. These plates then mount to a large size, standard beam type engine mount.

However, this makes for a rather wide mounting footprint; too wide in fact for some firewalls. In this case, I cut down the original crankcase bolt spacers, and size the crankcase half bolts to a length that will go all the way through the beam mount. The engine then sits directly on the beam mounts themselves, making the mounting width much narrower. The crankcase bolt spacers, made shorter, space the crankcase off the beam mounts, allowing space for the large rounded crankcase half to fit between the mounting beams.

Hope that all made sense.... If you are going to go with the side PLATE style mounts, send me the exact center to center distance (fore and aft) of your crankcase screws. I think I have a template for that engine and if I do I will send it to you free.

Next is prop hub and ignition. That model Poulan can be run either with the magneto ignition, or be converted to electronic. Which way are you going to go? (Personally I much prefer losing the heavy mag and going electronic.) Anyway, if you go with the magneto, the prop hub is pretty straight forward with no tricky machining involved. If you want to go with electronic, here's a trick I often use. I use a hole saw and the drill press to cut the center out of the magneto. I then dress this down on the lathe, and either install the sensor trigger magnet in it, or machine a rotatable collar for it with a magnet. This precludes having to machine a matching taper in the prop hub, plus provides a keyed location for the sensor magnet so that if the prop hub happens to shift, it doesn't throw off your ignition timing. Then the prop hub itself is the same as would be used for a magneto engine; just a simple screw on affair.

Lastly, if you go with the rotatable collar for around the magneto center that has the magnet for the sensor, (which I recommend), I found a place that sells set screw collars for around 4 bucks each. I don't know about you, but for only four bucks, in most cases I just buy them and "pass" on that particular time spent bending over the lathe...

AV8TOR

Last edited by av8tor1977; 11-09-2017 at 02:39 PM.