The eagle eye reader may have spied that the steering servo is not high voltage. I used that servo as I had it sitting about, but it's now been changed to HV like the rest of the setup so that makes it easier not having to run a regulator etc. I am still skeptical if the steering retract plate will be strong enough but for now I am trying to keep the model light so lets see how it goes. I also need to make up retract doors for the tail, but I'll do that after I get a read on the CG and have an idea what weight needs to go where as it will influence wether I go for a servo or spring based door system.
Then it was time to do some installation on the front of the model... I don't yet have the spinner in hand, so can only do a rough engine fitting, but figured it was time to start on cowl fitting. Depending on how the motor is mounted there can be some areas that are a little tight even if you kick the engine over on an angle. I found that I had to make a cutout for the front cylinder head cover as it only just barely breaches the cowl:
This will be covered by a small vented grill, that directs air flow in to the cowl towards the rear cylinder head. This will be complimented by a larger grill at the back that directs hot air back out of the model. Yes it's not very scale looking, but I'm going on the basis that this is a 'sport scale' not true scale model, and also that on a lot of Mustangs I see they have giant cut outs with engines hanging out of them.
I have some miniature button head screws to attach these with so am gluing in som battons on the inside of the model to give secure purchase.
The engine mounts will be rubber fully coated with washers. I saw some really nice Seacraft engine mounts but alas I had already cut and shut my engine box to fit this size so lets see how they go..
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