Hi Matt - A few thoughts on the Wickelrumpf method:
The fuse on my DIIIa was heavier than I would have liked but that was more do to method than design and I would do somethings differently. I used 3 layers of 1/64 ply, over a largely open frame, glued with epoxy. The result was stronger than necessary.It was heavy because it was hard to get the strips to lay tight against the layer below, so there was more epoxy in the structure than I would have liked. Also, the disadvantage of 1/64 material is it results in a hull too thin to fair, and the material is too flexible so it distorts easily when laying down.I would recommend solid, not open, half molds.For example, carved from dense foam.Then strips of thin (e.g., 1/32) balsa rather than plywood.(You may want to check my build thread for the Pfalz DXV, where I strip-planked the top and bottom of the fuselage with balsa laid down in “barber-shop-pole” spirals.)You could do the same thing over foam, and push tacks through the balsa into the foam to hold the strips down while you fit and edge-glue the strips together.CA would make this go quick, and is light.On the second layer, pull the tacks as you proceed, so they don’t get covered.Tacks are not necessary if you use thin CA, as it will immediately bond to the first balsa layer.If you want to use slow (e.g., aliphatic) glue, you can tack the second layer too.Repeat same for third layer.Then remove the foam (not sure how easy that would be).The build-up fuselage should have better shape, some thickness to sand, and be quite light.Once the shells are removed, you apply additional strips, stringers and bulkheads inside to stiffen.You might want to add ½ oz glass to the outside to improve puncture resistance – or put glass between the layers.I would experiment on a compound curved section to make sure the method, materials and weight work the way you like.I have not tried this.But I did build a (full size) boat using similar method.Stapled the strips to a wooden mold, pulled the staples as additional layers went on.In that structure, 3 layers of 1/8” Western Red Cedar was incredibly strong.The most tedious part is planning each strip, although as I think about it, you probably only need a tight fit for the inner and outer layers. Leaving space between the strips on the middle layer might be a clever weight saving strategy – overall or perhaps just back in the tail where lightness counts.Experiment!
Yep - I always hand flip my engines. Heavy gloves for the big gassers. Chicken stick for little engines/sharp props!
Last edited by Sethhunter; 12-12-2017 at 12:53 PM.