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Old 01-31-2018 | 08:50 PM
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mgnostic
 
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Kamay, TX
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Originally Posted by wendell b gabbard
Just noticed you mentioned the dyed silk. That's probably what I will try'. How much ventilation should I consider when using the nitrate inside.?
How much intoxication/brain damage do you want? I'm only being a little bit of a smart aleck. Dope uses some really volatile solvents. Unless it is just a quick in and out of the shop patch job, I make a point of at least using an exhaust fan and I prefer to apply any dope out of doors or at least in an area with good ventilation. When you open that first can you will understand what I mean. On the upside the smell clears out pretty quickly.
On something like a Guillows model two coats of nitrate should be plenty. If you go to the Sig or Brodak websites there are probably guides on applying dope. The usual practice is to apply a couple of thinned coats of dope to the wood frame to seal the wood grain and to help with adhesion. This will raise some fuzz on the wood which can then be sanded off with fine grit sandpaper. If you use the tissue paper that came with the kit or silk you really don't even need stix-it. After you have primed the wood with nitrate dope then you can apply the tissue/silk. Thin the first coat by half with dope thinner. Cut each piece of covering to fit the area that you are going to cover. Apply the covering to the frame as smoothly as possible and then paint around the perimeter of the covering with the thinned dope so that it soaks through the covering to the frame below. This will soften the dope on the wood below and the covering will stick to the frame. Alternatively some people glue the edges of the covering with thinned Elmer's glue or even a glue stick. Shrinking silk or tissue is accomplished by wetting the covering with a fine mist of water. Don't soak the covering, just damp is enough. Lightweight structures, in the case of the Fokker this particularly applies to the rudder and stabilizer should be done one side at a time and pinned down while they dry to prevent warping. After the covering is adhered and shrunk than apply a coat of thinned dope to the entire surface and allow it to dry. Then a second coat may be applied. If you want to fill the grain of the covering a small amount of talcum powder can be added to the dope. Dope is essentially a lacquer. This means that if you are will to go to the effort you can apply enough coats, sanding between coats and then buffing the paint to produce a mirror shine. This is very attractive and will turn your Fokker into a nice paperweight. The Guillows Fokker is a nice exercise in building. I'm working on my second in between other projects. If you have any intention of flying it, lightness is your friend. Between covering various bits of the airplane with different colored panels of silk and or tissue you can replicate whatever color scheme you want for the airplane. You can even apply decoration such as stripes cut from tissue over the main covering using thinned dope just as you would if you were putting the tissue onto wood. For more information on covering small airplanes with doped finishes I would suggest having a look at the Flying Aces Club website.