Originally Posted by
AznDrvr
I have a 1/10 Tamiya I use for Rallying and bashing but, I was more asking in general. I mean by calculations you can come up with 1:1 gearing then that means your gearing is right, in theory. So then if your motor is running hot that would mean you have the wrong motor? So if your gearing is right and your motor isn't broken then other factors play into this "gearing/motor combination", correct? Then assuming everything is working on your RC (i.e. everything that needs to be moving/spinning freely is doing so, etc.), something else is overworking the motor. I feel like the weight would be the major factor here. I'm not an engineer or physicist or mechanic so, I don't know. But, if trying to determine which way to go with the motor, which way would it be? Do you need a higher/lower kv/turn motor?
Originally Posted by
RustyUs
The only time you will have a 1:1 ratio is when you are running the same tooth count pinion/spur, and internal gear ratio is also 1:1. I don't know of any "normal" RC with a 1:1 ratio. I mean, sure, you have on-road cars with spur/diff right on the axle are considered to have internal ratio of 1:1, but I always see a pinion gear that is smaller than the spur gear being used.
After rethinking what AznDrvr was asking, I realize now, it's the 1:1
Rollout Ratio gearing they were after.
I'm beginning to think brushed motors will run hot, no matter what. Plugging the numbers into a Gear Wizard, my T4.3 is undergeared by quite a margin (0.83:1 rollout ratio). 15/87 with a 2.6:1 tranny, and ST tires...I can't get more than eight minutes of run time before motor is scorching hot. I can pretty much hold the trigger at WOT around the whole track.
I will try using a 20T pinion next time out, and after I clean/lube the motor. I pretty sure I tried the 20/87 gearing before and got same hot results.