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Old 04-03-2020 | 12:30 AM
  #12  
tomhugill
 
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
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From here on things happen quickly as the bulk of the work is done (even if not much is attached).

The next job was the skirts.

On my chally jim had removed the skirts which was going to present problems with fitment. I chopped styrene in search to a solution, which looked possible but requiring careful measurement. However I was saved. Jim had included the removed skirts! They had been removed so nearly I had but to stick them on and we were good to go.

The backing plate was test fit with everything aligning perfectly. This was glued to the armour blocks and the whole thing super glued on.

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The result is really really solid, big thumbs up!

Now the sides were on I could add the resin fronts and the covers over the indicators.

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Next up is the bar armour. As I said earlier this is really well done. Theres some slight trade of between thickness and strength but I think armoured models have struck the right balance.

The fit and finish is perfect, there are some separate mounts which had me scratching my head, but there are some assembly photos on the armoured models facebook page which were invaluable.

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The rear portion has supports which correspond roughly to the fule drum mounts with the lip at the bottom facing out.

Really important at this point is not to attach the supports to the rear plate and the bar armour. I did this and realised I'd effectively glued the top and bottom together! DOH!

On mine I opted to attach the supports to the tank as it's a more solid join.

The way the rear jerry can holder, phone box etc are to get the top on an off you have to slot the rear of the upper down first getting the gap in the bar armour under the aforementioned bits. The front can then slide down. On mine I had to remove some ribs which sit behind the chobham front plate to get the front over cleanly.

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