Originally Posted by
Hydro Junkie
Okay, from someone that knows and works on hydroplanes, both full sized and R/C, let me throw a few things at you:
1) Stick with a single rudder. Not sure what the second blade is for under the left side of the hull but it's not worth installing
2) Streamline that air scoop. Right now, it's just aerodynamic drag that serves no purpose. If you streamline it, the airflow over the outside won't affect how the boat handles while, as it is right now, it can. Worse yet, it gives the air flowing around it a place to catch that can pull the top off the boat.
3) Open up the air scoop. With the engine enclosed, it won't be able to get air into the carb, something that isn't a good thing. By opening up the scoop, it will force fresh air into the cowl that will facilitate keeping the engine running properly.
Thanks for the tips my friend , I'm taking any help can get , the prototype had a single rudder behind the prop but it became useless at speed , maybe that was the problem all along and it only needed a single rudder to one side of the prop , this rudder setup came with 2 rudders so I just mounted it the way it came but they are removable and I could take one off to reduce drag . as far as the scoop goes, that is just a foam plug to make the mold ,the final scoop will be opened up and I will be making a larger exit on the rear panel to draw air into the scoop and across the engine . the large rounded rear tunnel will house the Greeves tune pipe so I want the air from the scoop to go down into the engine compartment and flow through the rear turtle deck to cool the exhaust . . I do have a question ,how deep and what angle should the prop be in relationship to the bottom of the boat . in the prototype the prop needed a bid of a downward angle to get the back up off the water but don't know if it was the most efficient depth . Not sure what you mean by the fin under the right side ??? are you looking at the boat stand and thinking that is part of the boat ???