Originally Posted by
Cat 1
SO a little Boxer Update... I was so excited to unpack the boxer and found it to be in very good condition for a used mill - the seller said it had only been bench run and the condition confirmed this. But then I turned it over and my well tuned hand picked up the Unmistakable grinding of a badly corroded bearing. Obviously it was not "recently" bench run and it was also not run out or stored properly - Smell gave it away too.
Has been disassembled and every bearing is done - Badly corroded - No other issues as cam/crank/followers are all OK with only minimal slight staining and no pitting. Rods/Liners/Pistons/Rings and valve train all look 100%...
Questions:
Should the tiny rod cap bolts be replaced during build up - Thinking and reading this might be a good option. Locktite?
Any advice on bearing replacement (what to look for in bearings) - The seller has agreed to split of the cost of the bearing renewal - felt very bad about selling in this condition but he had bought it from a fellow modeller who passed along it was "MINT". I don't get the feeling he meant to mis-represent the motor but got caught passing on bad info. The bonus is that it will start its gasser life with fresh bearings.
also - what do your prop driver magnet mounts look like
The question about the rod cap bolts is a good one, and one of the few I do not have a direct answer to: Every engine workshop manual I have ever had my grubby little fingers staining the pages, had ample warnings on how to handle these bolts (torque, lubricating before assembly or not, reewal at each dismantling, etc etc) but the ASP manual says nothing about it, nor did I ever get any specific info about that from any vendor. Can't remember Dave McIntyre (the YT guy that has hundreds of engine disassembly video's on his channel) ever mentioning it. So whatever follows is based on logic, not on hard info.
AFAIK those bolts were never sold separately, So I assume renewal is not necessary. I also do not remember any scary stories from people that disassembled one and afterwards had issues with rods letting go.
So I would say reuse the bolts, do not loctite them, but torque them as accurately as possible. Of course, the caps needed to be kept with their individual rods, and fitted back in the same orientation, and preferrably keep the rods to their original crankpin as well, just to be on the safe side.
Be glad you have the ASP. To the best of my knowledge, the ASP has straight bearing sizes. The OS appears to have one odd sized bearing that is hard to find.
Get bearings of C3 clearance class for the crankshaft. The cambearings can be C2 ("standard" clearance)