So, traffic indeed is low.

In that case, I won't bore or bother too many people by giving a bit more background info.

The boat is a more or less entry-level kit into steaming, the "Borkum" from Krick of Germany. Pretty good kit, not flawless, it has a few minor screw-ups in the lasercut parts (a few tabs and slots not aligning by abt 2~3 mm (appr 1/8") but nothing really serious), but the supplied stern tube is downright unacceptable in quality and the coupler between shaft and engine simply is a joke. All minor issues, otherwise the kit really is fairly complete and of pretty good material quality. Very sturdy ABS hull, pretty accurately cut out of the mould with very little trimming left to do. A 55 mm (~2-3/16") brass propeller is included, that is a pretty good match to the boat. IMHO the kit is absolutely worth its money, and although I am absolutely not an RC boater at heart, I absolutely had fun building it. Took me some 75~100 hrs at a leisurely pace. Learned a few new techniques as well.
I deliberately kept the boat sober and left out a lot of the rather "blingy" accesories, I thought it more realistic to leave off the brass andrails, flagpoles and bells and lights. Just wood, no bling. Like utilitarian boats used to be in the very early 1900's in Europe.

The Engine is a Microcosm M29, a two cylinder double acting, slidevalve controlled, non-expansion steam engine, reversible via a Stephenson dual eccentric, and fitted with an automatic cylinder lubricator. Total displacement about 6 cc or .35 cu.in.
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/10050...d=dPWRBsR6r2tP
It comes mounted on a bed, complete with boiler (I opted for the horizontal boiler, which for boats is less favourable compared to a vertical, but hey, what did I know, huh? I bought the engine first and then found out you need a boat or it won't be near as much fun, so...). Next to the boiler, also an oil collector, a burner, a gastank plus fuel line are supplied, the burner and collector are installed, the gas tank is "loose" and can be placed anywhere convenient. Two spare level glass tubes plus O-rings are also included. The horizontal boiler is fitted with a superheater made out of stainless steel, the vertical boiler is not.
Most likely, the horizontal boiler therefore is a bit more fuel efficient (even without superheaters, usually horizontal boilers are a bit better in that respect, the superheater improves that, but do not expect very shocking differences.
The machine is not really perfect "as is", but in my case, it started up at first try and ran as smooth as butter. It did however show a very high steamconsumption.
After reading up on it (user experiences from others) it took me only about 2 hours total to fix the main issues (poorly sealing slide valves and excessive clearance in the reversing mechanism) with nothing more than a small key file used very sparingly, a piece of 600 grid waterproof sanding paper and a few drops of white scouring household cleaner (don't know what it is called in other parts of the world, over here it is called "Cif", what the missus uses to clean stainless steel kitchen work surfaces).
And half that time was "spannering" and figuring out "how to", only maybe a 30 minutes were spent working the parts.
The steam consumption now is within acceptable limits at roughly 500 grammes (slightly over 1 lbs) per hour.

To make a true "installation" out of separate components, I hooked up a servo controlled gasvalve (Regner, from Germany: Gashahn RC- Regelbar | REGNER (regner-dampftechnik.com ) to control the burner, and an automotive pressure sensor 0-30 psi to read out the boiler pressure over telemetry, and since my TX is a Taranis with OpenTX, this pressure also directly controls the burner, keeping the boiler between 1,3 and 1,6 bar (appr 19~24 psi).

The boiler content is about 350 ml (just under 12 oz), of which about 180 ml, or 6 oz is "steamable", which gives an operating time of max 20 minutes if you take it easy, but the gas tank can safely contain 60 grammes of gas at 75% filling, which is sufficient for well over 40 minutes "balls out" steaming.
I did not like that. Lose track of time and the boiler runs dry, and the observation of the levelglass is less than convenient when the boat is in the water. So I also fitted a controllable feedpump (Servo-Pumpe inkl. Servoelektronik | REGNER (regner-dampftechnik.com) and installed a 350 ml (12 oz) feedtank. Since I could not buy a suitable tank (especially the shape was a problem), I made one myself out of plywood, aliphatic glue and coated with PU lacuer as used for wooden floors.
In the TX, the speed of the feedpump is matched with the steam valve, so the boiler by and large keeps level.
In itself, this tank only gives an operating time of about 30 minutes, but where a manual boiler refill requires taking the boat out of the water, depressurizing the boiler, filling it, then about 5 minutes to raise steam again, the feedtank allows to bring the boat alongside, pour some water in and be on your way again in 15 seconds all in all.
That brings endurance to close to one hour on a single gas filling with a bit of conservative steaming and one or maybe two very short pittstops.
Longer is possible but then you will need to take the boat out of the water for a refuelling (cannot be done safely with the boat afloat).

Normally, steam engines of this type are fitted with oiler cups on the bearing that hold maybe 2 drops of oil each, and need frequent manual refilling (every 10~15 minutes) and this requires taking the boat out of the water, and with a syringe or similar very accurately aim to get the oil where it needs to be or the entire "engineroom" will become a total mess.
I did not like that AT ALL... Not when the technology to remedy that exists basically as long as the steam engine itself. So I decided to use that technology, and made a small tank fitted with 7 wicks and as many oil lines to the lubricating points of the engine. Those are the 3 main bearings, the 2 excenter-pairs and the two crosshead guides. From the crosshead guides oil trickles down to the smallends and bigends.
This gives a continuous but VERY slow oil feed (think in the order of magnitude of about 1 drop every 30 minutes) to these lubricating points. Now the nice thing is: if you lubricate manually, most of the oil is flung off in the first few minutes without having done ANY useful lubrication, and the remainder of the time those points are running basically without oil. With the continuous feed, they remain perfectly lubricated 100% of the time with barely any fling-off. It pays off: This engine is made of brass, which is not known for its superduper wear properties, but the engine as it is now, has allready collected 25 runhours (22 of them in the boat) and so far, I cannt yet even see any running marks in the crosshead guides, or any play or clearance increasing. 5 ml (1/6th of an oz) will literally keep the engine lubricated for the entire day. I use regular full synth engine oil here, because that is what I have on hand, but basically any decent machine oil (sewing machine oil or other) will perform equally well.

Fuel consumption is about 60 grammes per hour, water consumption between 550 and 650 ml (18~22 oz) per hour, cylinder oil consumption about 1,5 ml (1/20th oz) per hour, machine oil, to be honest, very hard to tell exactly, but if I had to guess, "14 drops per hour".
For now, the project will be dormant for about 2 months due to me needing to go back to work (the hobby needs to be paid, after all) but next project, in 2 months time, will be the installation of a feedwater pre-heater annex condenser. This could potentially increase fuel efficiency by 5~7% while reclaiming about half or better of the currently exhausted steam, which with a little bit of luck will allow for running through a full tank of gas without needing to refill the feedwatertank. In order to achieve that, an additional oil separator needs to be incorporated in the feedtank.
The reduction in fuel consumption is rather irrelevant (it's only 5 minutes to the hour, after all) but being able to run the entire time without "pittstops" for water, will be a welcome improvement.

All in all it is a VERY fun way of operating a boat, real hands-on.