One thing I do know, is that it's necessarily wrong to assume just because something is produced on a CNC machine, that it's automatically better. I've been a machinist/toolmaker by trade since 1965, and know that most things that can be made by computerized machines can also be made manually. Unless there's a fancy shape, which would have to be set up specially, there is nothing that an automated machine can do that a suitable manual machine in the hands of a skilled craftsman cannot, at least as far as engines go. In fact, I've had to "feel/hear in" critical, extremely close dimensions that the CNC couldn't do because of it's limitations. There's no "magic" that the CNC does to make it better. Maybe they can run production faster but not better. The "baloney" that the manufacturers put into their instructions/ads that just because their machinery is computerized, that everything's so much better that they need very little break-in is just a way to sell more engines.

After studying the different methods, I now believe the Saito instructions on engine run-in are the best overall. No messing around trying to get the "optimum" needle valve setting first, and looking for "white" exhaust and then "grey" exhaust while chancing detonation/overheating, before the engine is ready for it, like in the O.S. instructions. Just set the needle 2 1/2 open (very rich), start, and run 10 min. initially. Pretty straightforward to me, and very simple to do.
Thanks again, for everyone's help.
Jack