I've been running both the 110 and 106 (102 w/110 jugs) for about 6 months now. During the heat of the Summer, hauling around a 40% plane, NEVER an indication of a heating problem. Of course, I am prudent about ensuring airflow is directed over the engine, and I NEVER lean the engine to peak, but have it about 1/8 turn rich of that little area on the needle where there is no rpm change, basically slowly closing the needle till the speed just stops increasing, then backing off 1/16 turn. That needle adjustment, for me, has worked flawlessly no matter what the temperature or humidity are. I came to the conclusion a long time ago that if you HAVE to lean the motor for an extra 50 rpm, you need a bigger motor or a lighter plane. Using this adjustment on t he ground, whtn the motor unloads you have a little extra mixture to ensure against leanout in the air. So far the spark plugs read just rich of neutral, a slightly medium brown color, with just a hint of carbon on the top of the pistons.

Now, some other precautions, that would help ANY engine, I run my oil mix a little fat, using Amsoil 100:1 at an 80:1 ratio, or one 8 ounce bottle to 5 gallons of PREMIUM gas. I've found that with the canister setups you tend to get just a little more cylinder pressure, so using 89 octane is not the best idea and the occasional "rattle" can be heard. 93 octane solved this dilemma. I also make SURE that all the air coming in the front of the cowl has to pass over the engiens cooling fins, and put small holes in the bottom of the cowl so that the carburetor can breath fresh air.

The last thing is that I don't over-prop my 110 or 106, but let them spin above 6400 on the ground. That's the break-point for me on these engines, as I feel that lugging the engine down to 6000-6200 with a larger prop makes you have to run more throttle all the time and never gives the engine a break, so it stays hotter than an engine that is not loaded as heavily. Right now I'm using the BME 28-10 and turning right at 6400-6450 HOT on the ground. A Menz-s 28-10 is about 50-100 rpm stronger, as is the Mejzlik 29-10.

The biggest consideration IMHO are: Keep the airflow over the engine, keep the oil mix just a tad fat, don;t lean the motor for absolute max rpm, and don;t load the motor with a stupidly oversized prop. This works for any engine. I've had this 40% plane/BME110 setup hovering for over a minute several times. . .overheating, you got to be kidding, right?

As for the cooling fins on the Xtreme, it's been covered both here and in other threads. They WORK, let a lot of air get in between them for better sloughing off of the heat, and really let the heat out of the engine. (they also save weight )

Hope this anwers all pertinent questions.