RE: u-can-do 60
RFW, Of the 1000 + posts on the UCD this is the first mention of an aluminum engine mount. The supplied mount, aside from offering vibration isolation, also enables you to tap out for the engine mount bolts and drive them right in to the mount struts, resulting in the option of not useing the supplied nuts, realizing a weight savings. Small, but it does add up. With the supplied mount, you can still get the engine back to the firewall. On the canopy the only way to go is with the canopy glue. Unless a pilot is installed, many have just sprayed the inside of the canopy first with paint and the glue is not visible. I tried the screws, what a mistake. Although you did a beautiful job with the pin stripeing. As far as the wing, with a one piece spar its very tough. I have destroyed a fuse with no damage to the wing. On more severe impact the part of the wing that does survive is the center, due to the rib doublers in that area. I have a few. Radio gear placement is always different for balance even though this plane is a production line clone. Out of five of these they were all slightly different. 4/40 rods is surely the way to goe. I used a quick fueler but chose not to go with any more optional conviences for weight reasons. I did do a pull/pull on the rudder. Good luck on your maiden, you will love this plane!
Kroflite, Unlike the forgiving wire landing gear of trainers which kept me in the air long enough to learn, any bolt on gear can get knocked off. The mount block is enginered as a shear block in the event of a rough landing, it will pop off without damaging the fuse too much. This plane lands like a feather and I have found that compared to other aluminum gear, the UCD gear is very forgiving and flexible. I havn't even had to bend one back into shape. ( even when destroying the plane) One tip that really works. Don't shorten the length of the axles. Drill a hole on the outside of the wheel pants inline with the other side and let that last 1/8" of axle stick out. Havn't lost a pant yet. Joe