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Old 02-02-2004 | 10:18 PM
  #25  
rfw1953
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From: Hampton Cove, AL
Default RE: u-can-do 60

Ken, I can't help you with Airtronics or the Tx. you are referring to, but I'm sure someone can help with this. Mixing channels vs. using a why harness will be important if you want to experiment with different TX settings.

Good idea to check all the covering before starting. Always suggested in the directions and pays off as you go. As for the stab holes, I'm assuming you have found the holes in the fuse. Place the stab over the fuse and align with the holes. You have to press down a bit on the covering to find, but they should be there. The holes are small (same size as the bolt) and can be difficult to find, but maybe aligning with the fuse will give you a better indication where to search. You probably already know this, but it's not spelled out in the directions, so I'll throw it in anyway. If you are going to epoxy the stab as I did, use a soldering iron to cut a line in the covering 1/8" inside of the fuse line so you won't have bare wood showing past the fuse line. Peal the covering away inside the lines on both sides. Epoxy and then add the bolts. Check the alignment. When mine cured there was a nice dab of cured epoxy coming out of the blind nut. Could see this through the servo mounting slots. This will keep the stab good and tight and keep it from coming off.

Sounds like Joe has the right idea with painting the canopy with "Krylon, Fusion". I will have to try this sometime. Good luck with your model. It really does go together fairly easily. I didn't see anything that can bite you during the assembly process. The tail wheel can be a bit challenging. You probably know this. Use a dremel tool with a thin bit to counter sink the tail wheel. This requires test fitting as the directions state. Oh, I did add extra hinges to the ailerons. Used Radio South CA hinges vs. the stock ones. I spent a good bit of time grinding and fitting the cowling, but then this is pretty typical. One last thing. I used 'All threads' from 'Ohio Superstar' for mounting the cowling. These are nylon inserts that go into the cowl mounting blocks. You can see how these look in the picture above showing the engine mounted with the fuel valve. Look at the mounting blocks. These come in several different sizes. I used # 2 'All Threads'. You drill a hole in the mounting blocks and put a drop of thick CA in the hole. Then insert the All Threads. Then used #2 1/4" socket head wood screws with a # 2 nylon washer into the 'All Threads'. This is the best method for securing the cowling I have found. All Threads will last longer than the model and the nylon washer will keep the screws from eating your cowling up. Hope this all helps. Post some pictures as you make progress. I always like seeing what other pilots are doing as well.

I juist saw Bent Gear's comments on paints after posting this. Sounds like some neat and different ideas out there. Thanks for the suggestions.