ORIGINAL: Steve Campbell
I just did this to my RC-10. Same set-up as you, except I needed a 13mm socket. Here's the problem:
You need to fix the one-way bearing in the socket some how, as otherwise it will stay on the engine shaft when you pull the drill away. The problems with that should be obvious.
Another bad deal is that I used three different adapters to hook everything together. As long as the torrington bearing was 'loose' in the socket, the slight wobble/runout caused by the mis-matched parts was no biggee. But once the bearing was "locked" into the socket (I used PFM), it now had a hell of a strain on it due to not running true. Those torrington bearings in the recoil starters are not the best quality; it was apparent that this set-up would not last long.
So I bit the bullet and bough a Yank Eliminator. Making your own systems is fun, and that's what modeling is all about. But sometimes you're better off just plunking down the cash...
Assuming you're getting fuel and fire, sounds like you need a faster drill, pal.
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I have been through a few of those yank eliminators, they are P.O.S.'s ... Don't just take my word, do some searchin' around the web. They last a very short time before the plastic race breaks apart and the needle bearings fall out. HGI will not return your calls or your emails because after they have your cash they don't give a sh*t. Wherever you buy it from will be forbidden by HGI from accepting returns, you can only deal with them after the purchase even if you have only had it a week. For about 1 dollar less than that P.O.S. you can buy a hand-held starter and the car adapter donut to start it in a fashion similar to a starter box but for under 25 bux...