If you're going to do it, I think it would just be easier to use Ultra coat. The tape would be hard to get deep into the hinge and would stick on the way down. The Ultra coat can be pushed down into the hinge with a thin ruler and then just iron down both sides, one to the wing/stab and one to the control surface.

This is the way Hanger 9 showed me how to do it in the Ultra Stick 40 manual:

-Get some Ultra coat. Clear is best to use on any color.
-Cut a long strip strip 3 inches wide. Make the length to be just short of the length of the hinge line. Use a big straight edge and a hobby knife to cut a perfect strip.
-Fold the whole thing in half with the adhesive side on the outside. You will have a long 1.5 inch strip folded over.
-With it folded, cut it down to 3/8" from the crease. This may vary on your hinge depth. Make sure the crease reaches the bottom of your hinge and that you have a 1/4 inch lip on both sides of the hinge to iron down.
-Take the adhesive protective paper off the adhesive side.
-Use a thin ruler or straight edge and push the fold into the hinge so the tip of your fold is touching the hinges.
-While you're holding the crease all the way down to the hinge, start ironing down the 1/4 inch part that sticks out of the hinge to the wing and control surface with a cover iron. Iron down both sides of the seal but you really don't need to iron inside the hinge (on the bevels). In fact I think that would add more friction.

I used a feeler gauge to get exactly 1/64 th gap all along my hing line on my Funtana. I doubt that I would see any change if I sealed it so I won't. Also with the huge 3D throws on this thing, I don't want the sealing to cause any extra friction or binding in the hinge. Sealing does seem to add some.

Joe