Actually you can get new parts for them still. You can get them from rcboyz.com. I saw them 2 days ago. Those motors break con rods because they are small and have the "lube holes" drilled in at an angle which weakens the rod. I put a rod from an ofna motor I had and it ran great for a while but that rod is the least of your problems. You need to get rid of the pull start. That is where the problem is. I have had my motor since the first day Associated started selling the GT RTR. I have blown the motor about 15 times so trust me. There is a bushing inside the side plate that disinagrates when heated up and it falls into the bottom of the crank case and pinches between the block and the rod and thats where you get most of your snaps from. Now that was the first problem...... get the block off plate and elimanate the whole pull start assembly. Second get rid of the wrist pin and the little locking clip on it. That clip will heat up and distort. When this happens the clip breaks off and falls between the piston and the sleave and scars it to hell and locks the motor up. When this happens you must pound the piston to the bottom of the stroke and then crank the motor over to push the sleave out far enough to get the rod off the crank. My greatest fix for this was to get a wrist pin off a ofna .12 that has white teflon on the ends of the pin. It floats back and forth in the piston but when it bumps the sleave wall it dosent scrach or pit it at all. Hope this helps you out and if you really want a real motor just get another on cause that motor is a POS and I have had so many problems with it sence a week after I bought it. Then the nightmares began. It runs fine now and I have the restrictor that was in the carb out (since day 2)..... Im glad I build full size motors cause if it wasnt for that I would probably just thrown it out. But hey Im always up for an engine challange!!!