well, yes the transmitter will work. however, you will have to turn all the rates all the way down and it will still be way too hard to control. with my 8u i have it set up so that not only are my atvs down to 30% (the minimum) but i also mix the channels onto themselves with a negative value. i have set it to mix -70% onto the channel itself giving me only about 9% travel and that is plenty. also, i have that set of mixers designed to turn of when i flip up my trainer switch and another set with a mix of -60% to come in to give me more control in a big gust of wind or something. you can do without that but it is sure nice to have. Also, you will need to get speed controllers as well. you did not list it in your list so i decided to be sure, as you may be new to electrics. you will need 4 of those. the great planes one will do, but you should put a motor switch on so you can have the bec on and the motors disarmed. you need good ones though because the cheap ones have too few steps to be accurate enough to control the model. propwise you will need to find a good counterrotating set that will work for your size model. the only ones i know of are the ones i use 10x4.5 set of cw and ccw props, one of each for $4 at toddsmodels.com, and the draganflyer props from spectrolutions.com. they are only designed to spin at about 1000 rpms max. they are very flimsy and undercambered so if you go much above that the blades will not provide much more lift as the edges go into negative pitch. if you want to make a smaller one than mine by all means go ahead, they will work fine. if you want to go biger, there is a cf set that comes out of germany that come from braun modellbau at http://braunmod.de/eprodukte.htm they are very efficient and very expensive. you can find these at northeast sailplanes i believe but i have heard far too much flack about them to even considering a purchase. the props are about $30 for a set of two so i would stay away if i were you. a word of advice. the larger props you use the more responsive it will be as the rotor disk loading will be lower. you want the lowest pitch blades to reduce blade stalling, and larger blades spinning at lower rpms are better for a project like this. as far as veetail mixers (or elevon mixers as they are sometimes known) the cheap ones will not do either. they have very poor resolution and the centerpoint changes every time. the only ones that worked for me are the ones from www.veetail.com. they are called the omnis and retail for about $55 apice. i tried the wattage mixers first though. they are the same as the gws ones and the graupner ones etc. they only have like 16 steps. by now i am sure you realize that you are undertaking an expensive endeavor. the only reason i was able to complete such a thing was because my dad helped fund me, this being a school project. i would be happy to help in any way. let me know if you have a question.
cheers