The following is from a PM to me and my reply regarding this thread.
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Re: yes i do work in the industry
quote:
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***^ wrote on 06-29-2002 7:09 PM:
so do the modelers that explained the titebond II use to me, is it just an opinion or is it really the better glue to use, i haven't had any prob's useing II, what were the advantages of regular titebond ??
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***, The reguar Titebond has a longer open time. In other words you have more time to get the 2 pieces together before the glue starts to set up. The Titebond II "skins" over in a very short period of time. It doesn't have the "grab" that the original glue does. It then takes longer in my experience to be able to remove the clamps. In any case there is no substitute for a good wood joint. It also takes longer to come to full cure. I have experienced varying shelf life with the "II" and have had it simply not stick to the wood surface or ball up upon application. I now buy it in small quantities, check the date and toss it after 1 year if not used. I have never had to be concerned with the regular version. Overall I would say yes the regular version is the better choice for model building.

In applications where waterproof glue is used you may want to consider the "polyurethane" types. They are completely waterproof but are difficult to use and do have some health risks both with inhalation and with contact with skin. I use this glue in the application of skins (sheeting) to foam cores as well as other applications.
Bill
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additional information added:
I use CA however do keep it to a minimum for several reasons:
1. It is expensive.
2. It is not good to inhale the fumes.
3. Joint strength is not always assured. (Did I get one 1 or 2 drops on the joint and did it go into the wood or onto the table under the joint or just go into the rib and not the joint of the rib and spar?)
I use very little epoxy for building. The 20 minute "finish" cure is used when applying fiberglass cloth to wing center joints as it is thin in nature.
Bill