You may also want to have some acetone and/or "UNGLUE" nearby "in case" you glue your fingers together. Don't ask how I know about that.

You do not want excessive (read dripping off or big lumps) of glue left. All that does is add weight without strength. For TIGHT FITTING BALSA TO BALSA joints use thin CA. The extender tips and/or micro teflon tubing make placement a lot easier, especially with thin CA.

For joints with a SLIGHT GAP (LESS THAN 1/16", preferably 1/32" or less), use medium CA. If it is a large gap, either recut/refit the piece or shim/fill the gap with some scrap wood before gluing.

For balsa to ply joints use medium CA.

To MINIMIZE CA drying in the tips, tap the bottle several times after gluing to have the CA go back into the bottle. If it does dry in the tip, you can either cut off the clogged area with a #11 blade (thin tips/micro tubing) or take the tip off and soak it in acetone overnite (use a separate container with a lid for this). DO NOT USE A PIN TO CLEAR THE BLOCKAGE. This will score/scratch the inside of the tip and will result in more clogs since the glue now has a rougher surface to adhere to.

For ply to ply, hardwood to ply or in areas of high stress (Firewall to fuselage, landing gear blocks, horizontal and vertical stab) use epoxy. I suggest using 30 minute epoxy. It gives you plenty of time to align things properly and provides a stronger glue joint than 5 minute epoxy. Rubbing alcohol will remove any excess epoxy that may ooze out from a joint and from your hands. Make sure you remove it while it is wet though.

Hope this answers your questions.

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