Well... adding CA to the hinges isn't a WHOLE lot different from adding it to fiberglass cloth. It gets brittle as you work it back and forth...

I like pinned hinges better myself, but they are heavier (not enough to matter on the planes you guys have).

Of the H9 hardware included with my US60, I'd have to say the gear was fairly good (bent a little wrong at the wheels), the pushrods were STIFF as 4ell, and were difficult to cut. The metal's hardness was MUCH more than the standard metal pushrods I've gotten from LHS. Don't know if this is a good or bad thing. The tailwheel assembly was... garbage. First crash and it's outta there. The fuel tank was woefully undersized for an airplane the H9 guys tout as 'loving with a saito 100'. I figure about 10 mins on a 100? I get about 9 with my .65 2C. The tank's also weak and a pain to install because it's all blind. A longer, tougher tank would solve ALL these problems and cost about $0.02 more to make for H9... The control horns I liked. I appreciate having 3 fastening points. I do have to admit it spreads the load better over the soft balsa my US60 has in the attatch points (I, too have the hardwood cross-member in both the horizontal stab and the elevator itself). The control rod guides inside were mounted nearly in the center of the plane. I can see no reason for this as it just means you have to bend the rods to meet the servo stock positions. To get around this I put a slight kink in the pushrods to relieve 'stall' tension. If I build another I'll just remove the servo bracket and install it in the right place.

I've hardly been building long enough to say "I know it all" but this just seems like an easilly avoidable problem.

Anyhow, you can always use a toothpick to put vasoline down the center of the hinge. It's a pain in the butt but it works. Rub in the vasoline with the edge/tip of the toothpick and the CA wont' flow there. HOWEVER, I DONT KNOW if CA adds to the STRENGTH of the hinge, so check this on some scrap first.