I always suggest taking some of the dihedral out. For one, it looks better, it becomes a little less apt to float, you will get more roll rate out of it and well yeah...take it out. I wouldnt do all of it but just most of it. Just make sure to get everything straight before putting it together with the glue. If you are really ready for a kick you could always bulid bigger control surfaces. I have flown for years on a budget (for all of my Middle School, High School, and College life). Thankfully now I am out and the money is starting to come in. Dont be afraid to experiment with things like this, just do it one step at a time and see how you like it. Worked for me [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]. Since we are on the budget subject I could give you the name of a few kits that are cheap and FAR underrated as far as performance goes. One being the Uproar (it comes in both .40 and .60) This is a GREAT flying sport airplane. It could be a great second airplane if the rates are turned down. I have owned 5 of the .40 size uproars and am currently modifiying theone I have now for 3D. (I have thrown the servos to the aft and made a CAP 232 3D tail for it). Balance is the key here. Another thing to look into is the SPAD airplanes that can be made for under 20 bucks usually, visit this site www.spadtothebone.com (great site, lots of info). If you have any experience building you should be able to fix the dihedral in the wing. If you do choose to enlarge the control surfaces (i.e. build new ones) then be sure to check the CG and shift your battery pack accordingly. Let us know how this turns out and good luck.