Don'y use less than a 1.6 2 stroke. You can run up to a 2.4 or 2.8 gas. Build it so at least one of the servos can go in the tail, preferably two.

I doubled the ply at the fuselage cabane mounts. You may want to extend the tank floor depending on the engine. Plan your engine installation carefully to get the correct distance from the engine mounting box to the front of the cowl. I added solid balsa between the spars at the upper wing center section and shear webbed over it to give a little better compression strength. Make the spar cuts carefully at the center section.. Measure 3 times and cut once.

The supplied PVC cowl is a POS. Give Stans' FiberTech a call for one of his. Wheelpants too if you're thinking about it.

You will have to design a cover to close up the opening where the landing gear mounts. It's not hard, just a nuisance. Try to make it removable.

Check the wood carefully. A lot of the stick balsa in the pair I built was warped and twisted pretty bad and had to be repaced.

There was an update on the c/g a year or so back. The booklet calls for a 1" aft of lower leading edge. It was changed to 1' up to 1-1/2" aft of lower leading edge. I think you find the update on the Lanier website. You can go more safely if you need to.

I used only two servos for the ailerons, mounted in the bottom wing, at the bottom side, and slaved to the top. There is no need for 4 aileron servos. 75 oz. in. servos or better will be fine.

It's an excellent flying bipe, better than a Pitts, and possibly better than an Ultimate. Set up right with weight and C/G, it will land slow and soft. It even will have a fairly decent power off glide compared to most bipes. If you want to 3D with it, you will have to extend the ailerons in closer to the fuselage to get into the prop blast. If you don't, leave them alone. It's got one heck of a roll rate.