I used this technique on my HB-C1. 30# flexible fishing cable worked well(for qtr scale), it's readily available. After the wing is built and finish-sanded, I anchored the end of the cable to the root rib. It is then pulled across the back end of the ribs, and anchored to the tip rib (the TE of each rib is sanded almost to a point). You should be careful not to pull it too tight, just snug enough to draw it up straight. Next, make up some small 'clips' from thin aluminum, these will wrap around the trailing edge of each rib, attaching the cable. Bond with ca or epoxy, clamp with a clothespin.
Covering can be interesting. To avoid a seam at the TE, the wing is covered with one piece of material. I start at the bottom LE, iron the fabric securly and work back towards the TE, being careful to bond the fabric to each rib. The covering is then wrapped around the TE, over the top, pulled snug to the LE, and ironed down. A straight lap can now be cut in the excess, and the edge rolled over the front and securly finished off where you started, making sure you left enough for an overlapped joint. Finish off the tip and root, then it's on to shrinking. Go slowly here, alternate top and bottom, and at different places on the wing. The idea is to heat it evenly. You will soon see how the fabric will begin to pull itself tight at the TE, pulling the familiar 'scallop' shape into the wire. This all sounds awful, but it's actually straight forward and well worth the effort.
A lot of axis designs used this technique, while the British and French seemed to favor wood trailing edges. This was not the rule, but rather a trend. German designs favored setting the spars well forward in the wing, which leaves a long portion of the rib hanging out behind the rear spar. That's why it is important to bond the cable to each rib, to provide some support.
Don, power to you, my friend. With Reeves plans and Replicraft drawings for the Camel, your E-III project will seem like tinkertoys.

John