All great advice but I would like to add a bit from my experience as well.

Add a bottle of blue loctite to your shopping list. When you get the plane and start assembly loctite EVERYTHING that has machine threads because they WILL loosen up and fall out if you don't.

If you have the hardware pack coming then you will be way ahead of the guys that decided to make 15 trips to the LHS to get all their stuff. ALL of the hardware is GOOD and usable, except the tail wheel. Don't waste your time using it as they are only good for about 3 landings if you fly off of a rough field, asphalt may be a different story but I can't speak to that experience.

If your going to be using a DA 50 bear in mind that this plane WILL balance tail heavy unless you take some steps to prevent it from the beginning. Remember that tail wheel assy I just mentioned? You got it, the replacement needs to be as light as possible, think carbon fiber with a foam tire.

If you are planning on using a 5735 jumbo servo for the rudder it might be a good idea to go ahead and mount it in the forward servo cutout in the tray instead of in the rear one. If your using an 8611 put it in the rear hole it will work fine there.

DO NOT fly this plane tail heavy on the maiden flight! Mine was and it caught me off guard on the landing and I have experience with tail heavy planes and usually this presents no problems. Bigger planes DO fly differently and you will need some time to get used to this one if it's your first big plane.

My setup came out tail heavy and now is right at 5!QUOT! which is the rearmost recommended balance point, the Edge flies GREAT here.

Check the incidences with a meter like SS said. Mine were 1.5 degrees positive which made the plane want to dive and took 6 clicks of up trim to compensate. Simply loosening the screws that hold the stabs in place allows for enough play to position them were they need to be at zero degrees. Re-tighten the screws and they will NOT move while flying.

For decent 3D I found that at least 40 degrees of elevator throw was needed. If you build it per the manual using the Sullivan clevises you can only get about 33 degrees of down throw before the linkages bind. To get past this go with the SWB arms like SS said and use 4-40 ball links with them. I went with the 1.25 arms to retain as much toque as possible while getting the necessary throws.

To get the proper geometry on the rudder pull-pull set up you will need a 3 inch armon the servo, get SWB's since you can put the ball links on top with 4-40 screws which prevents contact with the servo case at max throw. Do NOT cross the wires going to the rudder since they will rub on the front of the fuse slots and cut into the fuse. Use of the Du-Bro double horn on the rudder works great IF you make one minor modification. As supplied the horn !QUOT!arms!QUOT! will place the pivot point ahead of the hinge line which will result in uneven tension in the setup, re-drill the holes for the pivot and cut off and round the !QUOT!arms!QUOT! so that everything fits back together and works without binding. The goal of all of this is to get the aluminum pins directly on the rudder hinge line so everything will work smoothly.