when the torque rod is moving in and out that much that often ( add the sharp end on the rod ) it will wear away the wood quickly yes.

a snake is simply a control snake, push rod.. in my example I'm using a 2.5mm rod and a orange snake inner, for a 3mm torque rod i may use a yellow snake outer.
but any tube that fits snugly over the rod will do, infact i had to drill my snakes a fraction to make them more open, i also opened out the entrance to not foul with the bend in the torque rod

for me top hinging does 2 things, ok 3...
1, no air gaps, i make my wings as per-normal, but instead of putting a triangle edge on the aileron i just slope it off PAST THE ANGLE NEEDED FOR FULL DEFLECTION, this gives a straight true face and better contact with the wing.
i normally do this with film covered wings, this one is glassed, but still separate, only the tail is done as Ed described.
i don't use film to join them as it can shrink and pull the aileron too close. i lay the aileron on top of the wing 180 degrees where it normally sits. then use Diamond tape to join it to the wing, bottom of the aileron to the rear of the wing. then put it back down to it's normal position and add another bit of tape on top of the wing and aileron.

on this glider I've glassed the aileron.. used a strip of glass with the weave running in a X along the wing to join it, then glass the whole wing over the top inculding the aileron again.

2 it looks better, with no V in the wing the top skin has no huge breaks, this will be even more true for this glider which will have a painted glass surface so theres not even a tape break like a film wing

3 doing that single slope is easier than making an accurate V, the result is stronger also as the whole thing is hinged, not just joined by 3 hinges.
also being top hinged, not only is there no air gap, but theres effectively more aileron, so the performance is improved.. i did to a glider and doubled my roll rate!